Construction Elements –
Need les & Threads
W
ith every element of
sewing there are lots of
options, with choices to
be made about fabrics, notions and
techniques. This certainly applies to
needles and threads.Things you may not know about
needles and threads
Selecting the most suitable thread
for a project is not just about the
best colour match. Threads vary in
composition and thickness and using a
thread that is not compatible with the
fabric; too weak or too thick can spoil
the fi nished result, as the thread will
not do its job of holding the garment
together while remaining an invisible
part of the construction.
There will be times when thread is
used in a decorative context but for
the main construction, the thread’s
smoothness, strength and ability to
blend and meld into the fabric are the
most important requirements.Types of thread
Most threads intended for general
construction are either polyester or
a polyester-wrapped cotton thread.
They are usually very strong and suit
the majority of fabrics.
The main thing to consider is
the thickness of the thread. It is
interesting to compare threads as
they can vary widely in thickness.
See photo 1.If you are sewing a fi ne, lightweight
fabric it is best to use a fi ner thread.
Thicker threads are more suitable for
heavier fabrics.
Threads are identifi ed by numbers
indicating thickness – #100 very fi ne,
#50 fi ne, #40 medium, #30 thick.
Most common machine sewing thread
is #40. See photo 2.
Silk thread comes in a variety of
thicknesses from #100 which is
wonderful for hand-sewing hems- it is so fi ne that hemstitching is
not visible from the right side of a
garment (provided of course that
a very small stitch and fi ne needle
are used!). #50 weight silk thread
blends into the fabric beautifully with
machine sewing. See photo 3.
Decorative and specialty threads are
available for specifi c purposes – fi ne
rayon machine embroidery thread,
topstitching thread, fi ne cotton
heirloom thread, #50 quilting cotton.
Tips for Usage- Always use a good quality thread.
- The thread colour looks darker on
a reel than when it is unwound so
choosing a slightly darker thread to
match the project will give a better
match. - If you are unable to match a colour
in topstitching thread, use two
regular threads through one needle
to add the required thickness. These
threads can be blending colours for
multi-coloured garments.- Use fi ne thread for buttonholes –
heirloom or #50 cotton work well
for machine buttonholes; use silk
buttonhole thread if making hand-
worked buttonholes. - Use topstitching thread to sew
high-use buttons in place; e.g. coat or
jacket buttons. - Most general purpose threads are
cross wound and work well with
horizontal feed. Some specialty
threads are not cross wound and
will work better with vertical feed.
If your machine does not have
provision for two spools feeding
in the same direction, there are
separate thread guides available for
a reasonable cost – these can be a
great sanity saver when using twin
needles or two threads in one needle. - If you have diffi culty threading a
machine needle, place a small piece
of white paper directly behind the
needle and the hole will be more
visible. - Cutting thread on an angle also helps
with easier threading. - If bobbins are wound at high speed,
there can be problems with the
thread stretching as it is wound on
to the bobbin, resulting in puckered
stitches – slow down to around
three-quarter speed for the best
results. - Make sure the thread is securely
in the bobbin tension as you are
By Alison Wheeler
Tips and Techniques
This series of articles focuses on various areas of garment construction and
offers different methods to achieve success and a garment to be proud of.