Australian_Gourmet_Traveller_2017

Eat out

Two forthcoming Carlton ventures are quickening pulses: the

reopening later this year of the refurbished and expanded

King & Godfree deli and wine store, and a new Sicilian

100-seater called Mr Pietro by Kaprica’s Pietro Barbagallo.

The spiritual home of Melbourne’s Italian

community is still one of the best places in the

country to shop for food and drink coffee like

an Italian, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

BAKER

Baker D Chirico Undulating joinery

makes this one of the ’hood’s most

beautiful shops, but there’s beauty,

too, in Daniel Chirico’s range of

sourdough bread (from wholemeal to

fruit loaf), custard-filled bomboloni

and queue-attracting seasonal fare

such as panettone. 178 Faraday St,

Carlton, Vic, (03) 9349 3445,

bakerdchirico.com.au

BUTCHER

Donati’s Fine Meats The strains of

Italian opera, owner Leo Donati’s

bracingly frank manner and some of

the finest rabbit, veal, pork and pork

products in Melbourne make this

butcher shop, here since the 1960s,

a Carlton landmark. 402 Lygon St,

Carlton, Vic, (03) 9347 4948

COFFEE

Brunetti There are other artisanal

coffee makers in Carlton (Faraday

Street’s Market Lane Coffee, for

example), but nothing beats the

marble-and-brass Roman style of

Brunetti. The coffee’s solid – kind

of like you’d find in Italy – the

experience unforgettable.

380 Lygon St, Carlton, Vic,

(03) 9347 2801, brunetti.com.au

GELATO

Pidapipò Owner and gelato-maker

Lisa Valmorbida went to Carpigiani

Gelato University in Bologna and

returned with a purist approach

• nothing frozen, whole milk and
  only fresh fruit for flavouring. The
  result is gorgeously textured gelato
  scooped from lidded pozzetti. The
  pistachio is remarkable and there’s
  also a Nutella fountain. Generous
  servings, too. 299 Lygon St, Carlton,
  Vic, (03) 9347 4596, pidapipo.com.au

PIZZA

Kaprica Pietro Barbagallo makes

Sicilian-style pizza with care and

skill in this rustic former garage.

There’s pasta, too, and Americanos,

but the pizze are non-negotiable,

from simple Margheritas to fancier

pies such as salmone with

mascarpone and roe. 19 Lincoln

Sq, Carlton, Vic, (03) 9347 1138 ●

Carlton

AN EATING GUIDE TO

DELI

DOC Delicatessen Any business with

a glass-walled, climate-controlled room for

keeping its prosciutto and other salumi in

tip-top condition and that treats its equally

impressive array of cheese – from aged

parmesan to fresh mozzarella – with similar

care is a friend of ours. 330 Lygon St,

Carlton, (03) 9347 8482, docgroup.net

62 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES GEER