120 Port anD the Douro
effect of the Atlantic the heat in summer can be suffocating, with the thermometer rising to
50°C on occasion. With annual rainfall of less than 500mm (and in places below 400mm),
irrigation is essential in order to establish a vineyard. Until the 1970s, the land beyond
Pocinho was almost virgin territory with few Port vineyards, even though the area falls well
within the demarcation. Cockburn, Ramos Pinto and Ferreira bought property in the area,
taking advantage of the relatively flat terrain and the availability of land. Now others have
followed, with a number of estates in the Cima Corgo taking up finance available under the
Jovem Agricultor programme, intended to incentivise young farmers to remain on the land.
Many shippers remain sceptical about the quality of the wine that can be produced here. I
tend to find that although this part of the Douro Superior can make rich, voluptuous wines
for Reserve, LBV and good aged-tawny Ports, vintage Ports often lack essential balance and
elegance. On the other hand, the area around Pocinho and the valley of the Ribeira d’Aguiar
have proved capable of making outstanding unfortified Douro wines.
Quinta do Vale Meão
Pocinho, 5150 Vila nova de Foz côa
Grade a/B
In the shadow of Monte Meão, Quinta do Vale Meão is the easternmost of all the historic
Douro quintas and one of the most fascinating. It must have been a huge challenge for
Dona Antónia Ferreira, who completed the imposing house and chapel shortly before her
death at the age of 85 in 1896. Now in the possession of her great-great-grandson Francisco
(‘Vito’) Olazabal, the interior of the house remains much the same as she left it and the
attic is full of fin de siècle memorabilia. The property extends to nearly 300 hectares with
vineyards covering a large meander in the river. On the eastern flank of the meander is the
Ponto da Barca Velha (‘Point of the Old Boat’) which is marked on Forrester’s 1848 map
and pre-dates the establishment of the quinta. In 1952 Barca Velha lent its name to a new,
unfortified red which has subsequently become one of Portugal’s most sought-after wines.
The wine was made in Vale Meão’s thirty-pipe lagares until the production was transferred to
Quinta da Leda in 2001. Vale Meão now produces its own extremely impressive red Douro
wines (see Chapter 7). The Barca Velha story is recounted in full in Chapter 6.
Quinta de Touriga
chã, 5150 Vila nova de Foz côa
Grade B
Having dedicated nearly fifty years of his life to the Port trade, José António Ramos Pinto
Rosas decided to establish his ideal retirement quinta. In the early 1990s he acquired twenty
hectares of flat, virgin territory at Chã, just above Pocinho and, at 72 years of age, began
setting out a vineyard. Vines cover 8.5 hectares of rocky schistous soil and, due to the
preponderance of Touriga Nacional, he named the property Quinta de Touriga. The property
has a beautiful modern house and winery (both built sympathetically from local schist) with
wonderful views over the surrounding countryside, most of which is still uncultivated.