180 Port anD the Douro
the grapes looking rather shrivelled but heavy night-time dew helped to swell the berries.
Rain in mid-September fell too late for the Douro Superior but helped swell the grapes in
the Cima Corgo. When picking began, very high ambient temperatures (40°C) presented
problems for those without adequate control. This has subsequently showed up in some of
the wines. Cooler weather arrived during the harvest and, when the last grapes reached the
adegas, some producers had to heat the must in order to kick-start ferments. The grapes
tended to be small with little juice, and at the outset the wines seemed deep and well
structured with tannic backbone and grip.
Most of the major shippers declared 1991 outright (with the notable exception of
Delaforce, Fonseca and Taylor who produced some good SQVPs). The market for Port was
strong at the time, especially in the US which bought more vintage Port than the UK for
the first time in history. Given the American penchant for drinking vintage Port young,
most 1991s have probably been drunk by now. This is all to the good because many of the
wines have turned out to be rather soft and early maturing, some marked by a hot, raisiny
character. All the 1991s are ready to drink and some are already falling apart.
Pick of the Vintage: Croft; Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas; Rozès.
1990 *** unusual year: quantity matched by reasonable quality
A prolific harvest followed a wet but mild winter and good weather during flowering.
July and August were very hot leading to queima (burn) but some heavy rain in mid-
September saved the day. Temperatures were high during vintage and outlying properties
without temperature control had to draw off their lagares early, with the wines suffering as a
result. There were more problems during vintage when some shippers ran out of fortifying
aguardente only to find that the Casa do Douro had issued licences to produce Port in excess
of the annual benefício. No full declarations but some rich, ripe single-quinta wines were
released. Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim, Graham’s Malvedos and Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha
are all good for the medium term (drink from now to 2020).
Pick of the Vintage: Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim.
1989 ** attractive wines for the short to medium term
A dry winter was followed by sporadic rain throughout the spring. Localised hailstorms caused
problems in June. There was extreme heat in late July and August, by which time some vineyards
were showing considerable signs of stress. Yields were thankfully up on 1988 but still below
average. Picking began early (6 September at Quinta dos Malvedos), but in retrospect better
wines would have been produced if the harvest had been delayed for a week or so as heavy rain
fell on the Pinhão and Rio Torto areas on 8 and 9 September. However, the grapes were in perfect
condition and there was little or no disease. Most rain fell in the Baixo Corgo and the wines here
were considerably better than normal. Picking continued under warm, clear conditions and
some appealing, full-bodied SQVPs were produced, all of which are fully ready to drink.
Pick of the Vintage: Quinta do Vesúvio.