188 Port anD the Douro
1969 *
Desavinho (coulure) in May and an attack of mildew in early June cut down potential
production, ensuring that 1969 would not be a high-yielding year. A hot summer followed
but by early September the vines continued to be very backward. Rain fell in mid-September,
bringing on rot in some districts. A late harvest produced wines that were much better
than was previously thought possible. Taylor produced an attractive wine from Quinta de
Vargellas, but otherwise no one declared.
1968 *
Late flowering followed by a hot, dry summer. Heavy rain just before harvest led to some rot.
Attractive but early-maturing wines represented by Fonseca Guimaraens, Taylor’s Quinta de
Vargellas and Graham’s Malvedos. Drink up.
1967 ** / *** middle-weight, middle distance wines; most fading
A wet spring followed a dry winter. This had a negative impact on flowering and resulted in
poor berry set. July, August and September were hot with almost no rainfall. Picking began
on 26 September and the weather remained good throughout. Musts were described as being
slightly green and unripe at the time (perhaps a function of the heat) but with plenty of colour.
Many people picked too early. Four shippers chose to declare 1967 in preference to 1966,
with Cockburn and Martinez following their own rather idiosyncratic hunch that 1967 was a
better year. Sandeman (who declared both years) produced a wine that is just as good as their
excellent 1966. On the whole, 1967 produced good, gentle, middle-distance wines, which are
now looking rather tired around the edges. However I have enjoyed Cockburn on a number
of occasions, and Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas is sweet, peppery and fully mature. Quinta do
Noval Nacional is beautiful with a honeysuckle nose and crystallised fruit character but quite
loose-knit nonetheless. Most wines should be drunk fairly soon.
Pick of the Vintage: Cockburn; Quinta do Noval Nacional; Sandeman.
1966 ***** power and elegance; complete
History has been rather unkind to the 1966s and until quite recently they were completely
overshadowed by 1963. A warm, wet winter prepared the vines for a very hot, dry summer
with May registering unusually high temperatures. The flowering was successful with a
good berry set but the vines remained very backward until early September. In August the
temperature in the Cima Corgo twice exceeded 45°C. The vintage began, as normal, around
20 September and the weather remained fine until the 30th. The rain was in fact beneficial,
as the cool weather kept temperatures down and the grapes (some of which were raisinised
by the heat) resisted disease. Sugar levels were high (14 degrees Baumé was normal) and the
musts took plenty of work, producing impressively deep, powerful wines. On 9 October,
Ronald Symington wrote that ‘yields are the lowest for many years... We are delighted with
the prospects for the 1966s. It will be surprising indeed if 1966 does not prove to be an
excellent vintage for Ports’.