The Best of Fine Cooking — Real Italian 2017

tuscan peasant soup with rosemary and pancetta

This Italian soup, which has as many variations as there are cooks, contains beans, vegetables,

and fresh breadcrumbs and makes a hearty and satisfying one-dish meal. Yields 3½ quarts; serves 6 to 8

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1¼ cups small-diced pancetta (about 6 oz.

or 6 thick slices)

4 cups large-diced Savoy cabbage (about

½ small head)

2 cups medium-diced onion (10 to 12 oz.

or 2 small)

1½ cups medium-diced carrot (about

4 medium carrots)

½ tsp. kosher salt; more as needed

2 Tbs. minced garlic

1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. minced fresh rosemary

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained

7 cups homemade or lower-salt canned

chicken broth

2 15 ½-oz. cans small white beans, rinsed

and drained (about 2½ cups, drained)

1 to 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs, toasted

1 cup grated Parmigiano-reggiano

or Grana Padano

Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 4- to 5-quart

Dutch oven over medium heat. When hot, add

the pancetta and cook, stirring frequently,

until quite shrunken, golden brown, and crisp

(the oil will also be golden brown), about

6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat

and with a slotted spoon or strainer carefully

transfer the pancetta to a paper towel–lined

plate. Pour off and discard all but 2 Tbs. of the

fat from the pan.

Return the pot to medium-high heat and

add the chopped cabbage. Cook the cabbage,

stirring occasionally, until limp and browned

around the edges, about 3 minutes. Remove

the pot from the heat again and transfer the

cabbage to another plate.

Put the pot back over medium heat and

add 2 Tbs. more of the olive oil. When the

oil is hot, add the onions, carrots, and salt.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions

are softened and the vegetables are browned

around the edges and beginning to stick to the

bottom of the pan, 8 to 9 minutes. Add the

last 1 Tbs. of olive oil, the garlic, 1 Tbs. of the

fresh rosemary, and the ground coriander and

cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about

1 minute. Add the tomatoes, stir together, and

cook the mixture 2 to 3 more minutes.

Return the cabbage to the pan and add

the chicken broth. Stir well, bring to a boil,

and reduce to a simmer. Cook for 10 to

15 minutes to infuse the broth with the flavor

of the vegetables. Add the beans, bring back

to a simmer, and cook for a minute or two.

Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the

remaining 1 tsp. fresh rosemary, and let rest a

few minutes.

Taste the soup and add lemon juice to

brighten it—you’ll want at least 1 tsp. Season

with more salt if necessary and a few grinds of

fresh pepper. Serve the soup hot, garnished

with the reserved pancetta crisps, the toasted

breadcrumbs, and the grated cheese.

soups + salads

44 ReAl ITAlIAN 2017