PSA: Sensitive Skin Warning
The sensitive-skinned among us tend to have more of
a love-hate relationship with cosmeceuticals.BE PREPARED FOR FLAKINESS
With retinoids and other biologically active ingredients, there’s an inevitable
adjustment period. After introducing a new cosmeceutical containing
retinoids, you can expect a period of ‘retinisation’ – up to six weeks! – in
which your skin may become raw and flaky as it adapts to the new ingredient.
Upon application, the ingredient binds to your DNA, and immediately begins
directing the skin's proteins and enzymes to do certain things — the first of
which is to shed dead cells and speed up turnover. This causes water loss,
making sensitive skin seem drier and more irritated. However, over time, this
makes your skin more adaptable and less sensitive.AVOID IF PREGNANT OR BREASTFEEDING
Certain ingredients, including retinoids and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), should
be avoided by pregnant or nursing women. When the skin is exposed to these
acids in a peel, the ingredients don’t just saturate the dermis, they’re absorbed
into the bloodstream, posing a risk to foetal development. BHAs are able to
penetrate facial oils and go deep into pores, and beyond. Similarly, retinoids
and other vitamin A derivatives speed up cell division and should be used
with caution. In this instance, the reason it works so well is also a reason to
avoid it.and microbial properties. The Therapeutic Goods
Administration (TGA) does not require vigorous testing due
to cosmeceuticals being titled as a cosmetic formulation, so,
as it stands, there’s no standardised testing or monitoring of
products beyond what normal cosmetics are subject to.
Who regulates the term ‘cosmeceutical’?
Cosmeceuticals are not officially recognised by most
governments, including the TGA. The current issue is that
there is little independent evidence behind the claims made
about these products. Just because a product contains an
active ingredient, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s effective, as
it must be formulated correctly for it to have an effect on
the skin.
Do they carry any risks? How do you prep your skin for
cosmeceutical use?
Cosmeceuticals, by their nature, are more potent and
powerful than standard cosmetics. Skin irritations and
reactions can occur in individuals who don’t use the correct
cosmeceutical product for their skin type. To counter this
risk, have a thorough skin consultation with a dermatologist
or dermal clinician prior to commencing the use of active
ingredients. If you have not used active ingredients before, it
is vital you slowly introduce them to your skin to avoid any
irritations. Even try a patch test first.
Are there different grades of cosmeceuticals?
“Cosmeceuticals include cleansers, toners and moisturisers”
says Face Plus Medispa Skincare & Laser Expert, Amy
Cameron. “The age of the skin and hormonal conditions,
in particular, affect which products can or should be
used and in what amounts, which is why it’s essential that
you have a consultation with a qualified therapist before
commencing treatment.”
Can you overdo them?
You can have too much of a good thing! “Incorrect usage
can often affect the balance in the skin causing issues,”
says Cameron. “Harsh products can strip the skin causing
breakouts due to dryness or overuse of certain ingredients
such as a glycolic can cause sun damage if it is not used
with an SPF.” Applying two or three different serums for a
variety of concerns at once can also be a waste of money!
As well as absorption concerns, using too many products
can cause certain ingredients to become inactive, cancelling
one another out. Different products can ‘fight’ each other,
negating their efficacy or causing skin irritation when
combined. For example, never combine retinoids such
as retin-A with benzoyl peroxide as the latter actually
deactivates the former. “There are often products specific for
the day and again for the evening,” adds Cameron, stressing
the importance of a proper routine prescription by an expert.
Cosmeceuticals usually take at least six months to have a
visible effect on the skin, so keep at it even if you don’t see
results in a few weeks.
Ingredient Cheat Sheet
» VITAMIN A (RETINOL) – This
speeds up the skin cell renewal
process to diminish pigmentation,
sun damage, refine skin texture and
reduce scarring and lines.
» VITAMIN B (NIACINAMIDE,
PANTHENOL) – This improves the
skin’s barrier function promoting
healing and helping to reduce
epidermal moisture loss.
» VITAMIN C (L-ASCORBIC
ACID, MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL
PHOSPHATE) – This powerful
antioxidant is able to stimulate
collagen production in the dermis
resulting in firm and plumped skin.
» HYALURONIC ACID – A
molecule already naturally found in
the skin, it draws water to the skin
and also helps prevent moisture
loss. So if we already have it, why
do we need it? As we get older,
the level of naturally occurring
hyaluronic acid decreases, leading
to dry skin and more lines.» GLYCOLIC, LACTIC, SALICYLIC
ACIDS (AHAS, BHAS) – These
effectively act as chemical
exfoliators, retexturising to
refine and decongest the skin.
They can also reduce breakouts
and pigmentation. And will also
improve collagen production,
which helps to smooth out fine
lines. ‘Nuff said!
» ANTIOXIDANTS (VITAMIN A,
VITAMIN C, VITAMIN E, GREEN
TEA, CO-ENZYME Q10) – An
umbrella term encompassing
vitamins and enzymes that work
to repair damage. Antioxidants
strengthen the skin’s barrier,
fighting off free radical damage
and slowing the signs of ageing
caused by the environment.
» PEPTIDES - Not just a trendy
buzzword, peptides are short
chains of amino acids that can
work to hydrate skin and improve
cell productivity.