we walk onto the beach she says
it’s perfect learning conditions.
Phew. We start on the sand, where
I learn how to lie on the board and
where to place my feet when I jump
up. And soon I’m wading out into
the waves with my board attached.
Belen points out different waves,
explaining the good ones to catch.
“OK, there’s your first one coming
up,” she says. She helps to line me
up as the wave coming through
releases me and I actually stand up!
For an hour and a half, we catch
wave after wave. I’d like to be able
to say I keep improving but the
more I overthink it – ‘Am I paddling
too fast? Too slow? Landing too far
forward?’ – the more it messes with
my head. But I eventually give in. If I
fail on one wave, there’ll be another,
and it might be the best ride yet.
I’m on such a high when we step
on the sand. All I can think is ‘When
can I do this again?!’ Back in my
room and showered off, my second
breakfast arrives. Definitely needed.
What an awesome day I’ve had...
and its only 10:30am!
◆ Visiting Byron or somewhere nearby?
Have a private or group surf session
with saltygirlssurfschool.com112
What do you
love most
about surfing?
“It connects
you to your
environment. You
become aware
of the ocean,
weather, seasons
and wildlife, which
is often lost in our
daily routines.
No two waves are
ever the same so
you have a blank
canvas to be
creative and
express yourself.”What sort of
workout does
surfing give you?
“Surfing is fun,
communal,
challenging and
also connects you
to your surrounds,
so the health and
fitness benefits
of the physical
workout it gives
you are amplified.
It’s a full-body
workout, but I’d
say the main areas
it works would be
your upper body
and core, and
it’s aerobic.”What would you
say to someone
keen to try
surfing but is
hesitant?
“We should all try
tackling some of
those things that
push us outside
our comfort zone,
and I can fully
understand that
surfing could
do that for
some people.
That’s why I’d
recommend going
with a friend
who’s competent,
and try it at a safe
beach or sign up
for a lesson.”What sort of
waves should
a beginner
look for?
“I was fortunate
to grow up on
Seven Mile Beach
at Gerroa where
the waves are
generally gentle
rolling waves,
ideal for learning.
As my skill level
improved there
were plenty of
more challenging
waves nearby to
move on to. I’d
avoid dumping
waves and look
for a location
where you see
the whitewater
pushing along
20-30m to giveyou time to try
and stand up
before hitting
the beach.”What sort of
gear does a
beginner need?
“The good part
about learning at
a surf school is
you get to borrow
the equipment.
This will allow you
to try different
sized boards.
I recommend
starting on quite
a long board as
they’re more
stable to get
up on. Buying
second-hand
equipment,
borrowing or
renting are also
great options.”What do you love
about the new
Piping Hot range?
“I just love how
comfortable and
relaxed I feel
when I’m wearing
pieces from
the range. The
collection also
has great pieces
I can take on
tour with me or
while travelling.”WE CHAT TO...
SALLY FITZGIBBONS
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with the Shark Shield FREEDOM+ Surf, designed in
collaboration with Ocean & Earth and two times World
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that you apply to the underside of your surfboard.
Bye, sharks! $599, sharkshield.comPIPING HOT AMBASSADOR AND CURRENTLY NUMBER 8 IN THE WORLDBORN TO
RIDETHE SETS AT
CABARITA
BEACH,
MY SECOND
BREAKFAST
(YUM),
THE DRIVE
TOWARDS
ADVENTURE,
HALCYON
HOUSE AND
ME WITH
BELEN