H G travel
CALL OF THE WILD
Y
ou can’t help but hold your breath as a herd
of 30 elephants passes by. Sitting in an open-air
vehicle in the soft light of a spring evening,
wrapped in a blanket to combat the increasing chill,
it’s a magical and soulful experience. The matriarch
leads the way as fellow females and their young
saunter behind, tearing at branches as they seek to
feed their constant hunger. Some glance toward our
vehicle and bat their long lashes; others pass with no
acknowledgement of our presence despite the camera
clicks and obvious awe and excitement of our group.
They are so close it’s possible to see into their eyes
and breathe in their grassy scent. It’s surprising that
despite their size, they make little sound on gravel
and stone.
Ten minutes prior however, the sight of a charging bull
elephant in musth reminded us these animals are wild.
He was ready to fight off other males or destroy anything
in his way in order to mate, and we were parked between
him and the objects of his desire. He shook his huge ears,
secretions poured down his cheeks and a continuous
stream of urine spilled down his back legs as he jogged
menacingly towards us. Three or four times taller than
our vehicle and weighing perhaps seven tonnes, this wasa South african safari is an experience you must have at least once in life.
It’s as soulful as it is indulgent, as wild as it is refined, writes Anna Flanders.an experience of a lifetime and one that left me thankful
I was in the care of knowledgeable rangers and trackers.
As hospitable and engaging as they are passionate
about their work, the rangers and trackers love to share
their knowledge. This is of some comfort when
approaching a pride of lions in an open-air vehicle with
no gun at the ready for protection. Our guide explains
that a lion sees the vehicle and its inhabitants as one
large animal that doesn’t smell or sound like prey. Before
reaching the lions, the guide (strapped into a seat on the
bonnet of the vehicle) slides into the passenger seat. We
are told not to make fast movements, talk loudly, stand
up or leave the vehicle. If one person stands up, the outline
of the vehicle is broken and the lion is likely to investigate
(ie eat us). It’s hard to comprehend how the intelligence
and olfactory prowess of a lion can’t discern individuals
in a car, but after having a wild lion take a sniff only
40cm from my thigh, I can attest they can’t. And, it seems,
they are unable to smell fear either...
A South African safari is as luxurious and hospitable
as it is raw and unpredictable. It’s also cost-effective.
The rand is almost 10 times less than the Australian
dollar and the all-inclusive cost leaves you wanting
for nothing.Dusk at Great Fish River Lodge at Kwandwe
Private Game Reserve in South Africa.
There are nine suites in total. ABOVE
RIGHT Elephant spotting at Kwandwe.
Anna travelled to South Africa courtesy of Encompass Africa,
Thanda Safari & Kwandwe Private Game Reserve.