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multiculturalism at work. Take the room for starters.
Germanchis’ partner, Gemma Gange, a hospitality
veteran with Pei Modern, Stokehouseand Jacques
Reymond on her CV, has perfectly judged howmuch
change the bones of the surf lifesavingclubhouse
needed to make it both fresh and authentic. Her
masterstroke? Getting together with the surf club’s
historians and rehanging the existing framed photos
of the club’s champion surf lifesavers and life members,
framed medallions and timber honour boards on the
wood veneer-panelled walls.
It’s a move that honours the club’s history and lends
it a fashionable gallery-hung charm. Add the lifesaving
boats that hover overhead, suspended in the rafters, and
the changes Gange has made – comfortable banquettes
upholstered in grey fabric, smart white and grey chairs
and white Laminex-topped tables on timber legs
sporting vases filled with local beach plants – slot
seamlessly into the picture, taking nothing away from
the immense coastal views framed by large windows.
Then there’s the timber-decked veranda with
benches and green-and-white striped umbrellas
overlooking the sea. Locals, families and off-duty surf
lifesavers gather here to refuel before heading back
to the beach. And what are these people in this Max
Dupain-esque Anglo-Aussie setting refuelling with?
Lamb souvlaki from the bar menu, served traditionally
with chips wrapped with up with the meat.
This is where Captain Moonlite really succeeds.
Its mix of cultural influences is done with such ease it’sIts mix of cultural influences is done with ease. This is food for
this time and this place: Australian beachfront, circa 2017.almost imperceptible. This is food for this time and
this place: Australian beachfront, circa 2017.
The prawn and seaweed cracker is a must. It’s
a misshapen, plate-sized monster dropped into the
centre of the table for everybody to snap pieces off.
Move quickly. The prawn and wakame flavours are
strong and balanced in the fried tapioca cracker and
supplemented with a sprinkling of dashi powder. It’s
perfect for snacking on over beer. Or sparkling wine.
Or water, for that matter.
The raw fish dish changes each day according to
what’s available. This time it’s bonito, lightly cured in
lemon, salt and sugar before being quickly smoked and
served with a creamy eggplant and white-miso purée,
and three charred whole spring onions. Once again,
the smokiness remains in the background emphasising,
but not overwhelming, the other flavours.
There should be some kind of law making fried
calamari mandatory in a setting like this. Germanchis
obliges with a superb version of the classic. Chunky
pieces of calamari are scored, lightly coated in a
semolina batter, deep-fried and served over frisée
salad with sesame dressing. It’s a slightly fancy
version, but the clean, sharp flavours, concise
cooking, subtle crunch and just-pulled-from-the-
garden freshness of the leaves (they come in each
day from a localproducer) are a good argument for
fancying things up.
The kitchen keeps the fish and chips simple
and classic. The fish, rockling usually, is fried inIN THE FRAME
Top from left: Captain
Moonlite’s ocean vista;
whole flounder with sweet
and sour tomatoes and
chickpea fritters. Opposite:
the dining room and its
original photos and honour
boards; chocolate ice-cream
in white chocolate mousse.