LOUIS VUITTON S/S 2017marieclaire.com.au 121Describe the Louis Vuitton SS17
collection in three words.
Tailored Parisian heritage.
What were your references?
Paris and its Left and Right
Banks. They are two halves of
one whole and each has its own
sartorial particularities. The
French capital is a magnificent
vortex that absorbs artistic ideals
from around the world, and the
Place Vendôme, designed by
Jules Hardouin-Mansart, is the
epicentre of the elegance. The
heads of the 18th-century fauns
on the facade of the Vendôme
are particularly wonderful.
The new collection has a softer
feel than usual. Was that
a deliberate decision?
This is the most “French”
or “Parisian” line I have ever
produced. It sets Paris in a
specific era, perhaps the ’80s,
when the city was awash with
a mix of different designers –
all completely different, but all
focused around the Louvre, the
Palais-Royal and the heart of
the city. It’s a dressed-up look,
and purposely so. The make-up
is heavier, the clothes are more
embellished and the dresses are
more fluid. But the tailored
shoulders are very strong
and imposing.
Were there any elements that
you became obsessed with?
I love reinterpreting materials
and altering their function –
like making evening gowns
in jersey and the tailored
undergarments in latex.
The jewellery was major.
Tell us your starting point ...
I was hugely inspired by Paloma
Picasso, an emblem of Parisianbourgeoisie whose love
of opulent gold jewellery
echoes ’80s glamour – we
wanted to create pieces
that make a statement as
important as the clothes.
What is your favourite
new-season bag?
The Eye-Trunk for
iPhones. It has the same
detail found on an original
Louis Vuitton trunk and the
Petite Malle bag. It’s been very
successful and it was such a
simple idea, but no-one had
ever thought to develop it.
How does it feel to work at
a house with such a famous
leather-goods heritage?
Louis Vuitton is an iconic house
that’s so rich in tradition and
patrimony. But it’s also open
to trying new concepts and
innovation, and has retained
a real sense of authenticity
in its craftsmanship.
Where does your love of
futurism come from?
I’ve always been inspired
by technology and I find the
Japanese manga aesthetic
fascinating. I’m also intrigued
by the space between the virtual
and real worlds. And then of
course there’s the digital sphere,
where we can enlarge everything
and all must be perfect. It’s
absolutely linked to my thinking.
How do you combine that
with older eras?
There are often sartorial nods
to the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s in my
designs. The Louis Vuitton
woman is strong and confident,
and she doesn’t hesitate to
clash her clothes or combine
the decades. One of the mostinteresting things in fashion
today is that luxurious, classic
lines can mix with the more
modern, technical textures.
What is the first thing you
do when you start designing
a new collection?
I begin by escaping, using the
time alone to become inspired.
Then I meet with my team, share
ideas and we create an extensive
mood board, which is whittled
down little by little and
refined into a more
polished concept.
Are there any parts of
the world that inspire
your collections?
One country that I find
myself returning to every
season is Japan. Its
energy and modernity is
infectious. It’s a country
that looks towards the
future, but is also
anchored in tradition
and heritage – a lot like
Louis Vuitton, in fact.Below: intricate
details in the
lavish jewels.
Bottom: manga
comics influence
Ghesquière’s
design style.From above: opulent
tones and textures
infuse the collection;
jewellery icon and
muse Paloma Picasso.“The jewellery was
inspired by Paloma
Picasso – pieces that
make a statement as
important as the clothes”“Japan’s
energy and
modernity is
infectious”GORUNWAY/SNAPPER MEDIA; GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON
$700,
Lock Me Supple
bracelet$700,
Parure Coquillages
earrings$2590,
Pokerface boot