CrossthebridgeovertheVistulaand
you’re in the Podgórze district, the real
former Jewish ghetto of Kraków. Very little
remains, since the Nazis liquidated it in 1943,
savetwoportionsoftheimposingcement
wall that surrounded the entire district. A
memorial to the victims is erected at Ghetto
HeroesSquare,intheformof70oversized
bronzechairs,allfacingthesamedirection,
commemorating the site where the Kraków
Jews were assembled and sent to the camps.
Podgórzewassparedthetourisminflux
afterSchindler’s List,andsoisamuchquieter
andmoremysteriousplacetoexplore.Ihad
agreatdaywanderingitsstreets,through
Bednarski Park and up Krak Mound. To
theeastisOskarSchindler’sfactory,nowa
museum about Krakovian Jews during the
Nazi occupation, and behind that is MOCAK,
theMuseumofContemporaryArtinKraków,
a fantastic gallery presenting edgier pieces.
If you’re looking to explore outside
ofKrakow,daytripstothenotorious
extermination camp and memorial at
Auschwitz-Birkenau
can be managed
individually or on
atour,butinthe
summer months
need to be organised
well in advance.
For something
really different, I’d
highly recommend
the Wieliczka Salt
Mine. The mine
datesfromthe13th
century and features
anumberoftour
options, though the
real attraction is thegood in Kraków, and Starowis ́lna Street is
purportedlythebestplacetofindit.
Visitors will find parts of the quarter
teemingwithJewishparaphernalia,which
sprouted up followingSchindler’s List.After
WWII there were no Jews in Kraków, but now
there are Hebrew bookshops, Israeli cafes
and Jewish-themed street art. On the surface,
KazimierzseemsahavenforJews,butalotis
simulated:thechefsandownersoftheJewish
restaurants aren’t Jewish, neither are the
klezmermusiciansonthestreet.Atourguide
referredtoonestreetas‘JewishDisneyland’.
Still,timesarechanging,andJewsareslowly
returning, despite the sadness it brings.
incredible St Kinga’s Chapel, constructed
entirely from salt. Located 101 metres
underground, this giant hall is a subterranean
palace with glittering chandeliers, statues
and bas-relief artworks. The mine also
hostsconcertsofmusicthroughouttheyear,
including, as part of the Misteria Paschalia,
an early music festival around Easter time.
TheKarolSzymanowskiPhilhamonic
is home to the Kraków Philharmonic
Orchestra and Chorus, and is the city’s main
concert hall, hosting a number of concerts
and events (check outfilharmonia.kraków.
plfor more information). For opera-lovers,
OperaKrakówamovedintoitsbrand-new
premises in 2008, and attracts acclaimed
soloistsfromallovertheworld.
Thoseinterestedincontemporarymusic
should check out the Sacrum Profanum
festival,heldaroundOctoberandfeaturing
leading names in international new music.
Andifyoujustwanttohearmusicfrom
Poland’s favourite musical expat, you can
visittheChopinGallery,whichhostsdaily
concertsat7pmwithaglassofwineincluded.
Poland might not be your first thought as
atraveldestination,butthere’salottosee,
and my goodness is it cheap. The food is good
andhonest(Goła ̨bki,meatandrice-stuffed
cabbage rolls were my favourite), and there
areplentyofplacesinKrakówtosavour
traditionalPolishvodka.(Itried,atmyown
peril, the horseradish flavour). Getting to
know the city’s history is important and I’d
recommendKrakówFREEwalkingTOURas
an excellent start. Try it out; you’ll be saying
“Kocham Kraków” before you know it.OOpera Australia presents Szymanowski's
King Roger(inPolish,butwithsubtitles)at
Arts Centre Melbourne from May 19 – 27KAZIMIERZ TEEMS
WITH JEWISH
PARAPHERNALIA, WHICH
SPROUTED FOLLOWING
Photo © Keith Saunders68 LIMELIGHT MAY 2017 http://www.limelightmagazine.com.au
OMUSICAL JOURNEY
Polish Opera
Polishoperacameintoitsowninthe19thcentury
withStanisławMoniuszko,creatorofthenational
opera, in works likeHalkaandTheHauntedManor,
whichwereinfluencedbyfolkmusictraditions.
Władysław Z ̇elen ́ski was Moniuszko’s successor,
withhismostfamousoperabeingGoplana.
OperainPolanddiversifiedinthe20thcentury.
Karol Szymanowski broke with Moniuszko’s
nationalist style inHagithandKing Roger,
consideredaPolishmasterpiece.SonoristKrzysztof
Penderecki’s most famous opera is the haunting,
psychologicalTheDevilsofLoudun,sunginGerman,
andfocussedonatownofpossessedvillagers.
PolishJewMieczysławWeinbergisalsowortha
mentionforhisoperaThe Passenger, which deals
with the horror of Auschwitz.Kinga's Chapel in the Wieliczka Salt MineOpera Australia'sKing Roger