(^44) FLYLIFE
I
n 1885, just as the first immigrant
brown trout were finding homes in
Victoria, an adventurous 18-year-
old John Francis Brown planted
10 acres of mixed wine grapes on
the family property at Milawa, in
the King River Valley, starting one of
Australia’s largest and longest stand-
ing privately owned wine companies.
132 years later the vines, like the
trout, have flourished and so has the
Brown family.
Ross Brown is a fifth-generation
wine man at Brown Brothers and
Judy Brown is a retired occupation-
al therapist and self-confessed trout
addict. The two of them ooze King
Valley, and reflect a lifelong love affair
with the land and the environment
around them.
In the twilight of his career, Ross is
clearly relaxed about the generational
succession that is already in motion.
His daughters Katherine and Caro-
line purposefully go about their day
around us at the winery, Katherine on
her second vintage as a wine maker
and Caroline managing marketing and
public relations. Emma, their young-
est is in the US at Penfolds, doing her
mandatory five-year stint outside the
family business, as did her father and
her sisters.
Besides his director responsibilities,
Ross describes his contribution to
the business these days as a “projectsThere is no doubting that Ross and Judy enjoy time together on the water.
David Anderson hooks up with
Ross and Judy Brown in Victoria’s King Valley.
The Browns