Australian Wood Review – June 2017

(Steven Felgate) #1

40 Australian Wood Review


PROJECT

Which wood to use?
Any dimensionally stable wood can be used, and my choice
was tigerwood – scrap wood from a previous hardwood
flooring project. For contrast, I used maple, purpleheart
and walnut scraps to make the inlay strips.

Cutting the tongues
I planed and cut the stock to final sizes, removing the
grooves and tongues in the process. The quickest way to
cut the rebates on both sides of the sticks is to cut them
at the same time, that is, as tongues. I installed a tongue
cutter in my plough plane (photo 1) and started from the
far end, working backwards (photo 2). I found it more
precise to set the plough fence with a hammer.

You can cut tongues with a shoulder plane, but it’s a lot
slower. Clamp a batten in place on the workpiece and cut
the rebate – one at a time on each face – to depth with the
shoulder plane.

Cutting the inlay strips
Many woodworkers tend to approach the ripping of thin
strips with a measure of uneasiness. One simple and safe
option is to rip the strips so they fall to the waste side of the
blade. If you prefer to rip strips in such a manner without
resetting the fence, you can use a shopmade notched
pushblock that is designed to be cut into (see fig.1).

I have a Grrr-ipper pushpad which combines a blade guard
and pushblock to handle challenging cuts, like angled
ripping, resawing or strip ripping. I used it to cut out the
inlays (photo 3).

4

5

F i g .1 Notched pushblock (mm)

(add handle on top, if desired)

30-40

100

20

240-280 notch slightly less than
thickness of workpiece
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