http://www.woodreview.com.au 59PROJECTtape (photo 8), then hinged open
so adhesive could be applied to the
edges (photo 9). After hinging the
veneers back together more tape was
used to keep them tightly together
while the glue dried. The remaining
veneers were also joined into layons.
Chemistry
I had planned to use PVA glue and
it probably would have been fine,
however, I clearly recall Greg saying to
use West System Epoxy. I learnt that
a total adhesive thickness of 0.3mm
is required for veneering. My table
surface is approximately one square
metre therefore a quantity of 300ml
was required (150ml each surface).
It is important to accurately weigh the
quantities for mixing. At a ratio of 1:5,
206 hardener gives an open time of
half an hour. After thoroughly mixing
in the hardener, colloidal silica filler
was gradually added (photo 1 0 ) until
a ‘runny mayonnaise’ consistency was
achieved (photo 1 1 ). This prevents
the resin soaking through the veneers
as without filler the resin is quite
thin. West System supply paint roller
covers for application at the required
thickness (photo 1 2 ). The resin was
applied to both contacting surfaces.
I made pencil reference marks under
the layon so it could be positioned
centrally and parallel on the torsion
box (photo 1 3 ). The upper MDF
sheet of the press was placed on with
cling film taped to the underside so
any resin seepage would not adhere to
it. Both sides of the torsion box were
veneered to prevent warping.
Pressing
The cauls were then fitted together
(photo 1 4 ), and the rods tightened
from the centre cauls out in two
rounds up to a torque setting of
21/25, one setting more than when
the cauls were made, so pressure is
applied right up to the edge (photo
15 ). It is important not to overtighten
as (unlike regular clamps) the centre
of force of the rods is beyond the
edge being clamped^2. The veneers
remained in the press for 24 hours. 15 16
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