Australian Wood Review – June 2017

78 Australian Wood Review

PROJECT

to the depth of the brass lock plate and trim to the scribed

lines. Clamp a batten to the top of the chest to ensure the

router is supported by a surface of adequate width while

routing the top housing.

Again, finish both housings with a hand chisel (photo 5)

before testing the final fit of the lock (photo 6). Hopefully

you’ve managed to get things spot on, but should the

housing be too deep some scrap veneer works well to pack

the surface of the lock flush.

The next step is to cut the opening for the key but first

we need to choose a key escutcheon. The escutcheon is

designed to protect the keyhole from wear whilst also

providing some decoration. Surface mount escutcheons are

available that can be nailed or screwed to the chest, but

I prefer inset escutcheons which are fitted flush with the

cabinet front.

These escutcheons do require very accurate fitting, but

when properly installed will add to the traditional look of

the piece. The best inset escutcheons are manufactured

from cast brass although many these days seem to be

extruded and then bent to a keyhole shape. Regardless

of how they’re made, always look for escutcheons as

seen in photo 1 that are tapered front to rear to assist in

achieving a tight fit.

Mark the location of the keyhole by first measuring the

depth from the lock and then transferring the dimension

to the front of the chest (photo 7). Continue to mark in

pencil the shape of the escutcheon dimensions measured

from the inside of the taper.

Next, measure the diameter of the top circular shape of

the escutcheon and choose a clean cutting brad point or

forstner bit just slightly under the required diameter. Do

not use a twist drill for this initial step as it will tear the

surface of the chest and make for an inferior fit.

Open up the remainder of the keyhole with a fine blade

coping saw (photo 8) and finally widen the opening

to final shape and taper with a fine rasp or file (photo

9 ). You should be left with an opening that allows the

escutcheon to fit three-quarters of the way into the hole

with finger pressure.

Once this is achieved, you can press the escutcheon into

final position with a suitable clamp (photo 1 0 ). The final

step is to sand the escutcheon perfectly flush with the

chest leaving a gap free fit (photo 1 1 ).

With the lock fitted and tested for operation, the hinges

must be fitted to the chest lid prior to fitting of the

keeper for the lock. The hinges for this chest were simple

9 10

7

7. Transferring the
   measured dimension
   of the lock to the
   front of the chest.


8. Use a fine blade
   coping saw to open
   up the keyhole.


9. Widen the opening
   to final shape and
   taper with a fine
   rasp or file.


10. Press the
    escutcheon into
    final position with
    a suitable clamp.

8