Porto is having a
moment as one of Europe’s coolest moment as one of Europe’s coolest
destinations. From its beautiful ceramic-destinations. From its beautiful ceramic-
tiled buildings to the venerable port tiled buildings to the venerable port
lodges that lie along the glorious lodges that lie along the glorious
Douro River that bisects it, this hilly city Douro River that bisects it, this hilly city
is startlingly beautiful and culturally rich. is startlingly beautiful and culturally rich.
It’s Portugal’s second-largest city, with an It’s Portugal’s second-largest city, with an
urban population nudging 1.8 million, but urban population nudging 1.8 million, but
it’s compact, walkable and full of tempting it’s compact, walkable and full of tempting
bars, cafes and restaurants to linger in bars, cafes and restaurants to linger in
along the way. Its historic centre is along the way. Its historic centre is
UNESCO World Heritage-listed and UNESCO World Heritage-listed and
remains charmingly authentic, with narrow remains charmingly authentic, with narrow
alleys packed full of colourful houses alleys packed full of colourful houses
seemingly about to topple into the Douro. seemingly about to topple into the Douro.
Go there to eat and drink across the Go there to eat and drink across the
spectrum – from the signature port, spectrum – from the signature port,
excellent Douro Valley wines and some excellent Douro Valley wines and some
masterful high-end dining, to the masterful high-end dining, to the
simplicity of simplicity of pastel de nata pastel de nata (Portuguese (Portuguese
tart)tart) and the city’s signature dish, the and the city’s signature dish, the
kilojoule-loaded kilojoule-loaded francesinhafrancesinha..
@bymrsamos@bymrsamos @missleetulloch@missleetullochEAT LIKE THE LOCALS
From From bacalhaubacalhau (salted cod) cooked several (salted cod) cooked several
ways to big pots of sticky seafood rice (the ways to big pots of sticky seafood rice (the
Portuguese are the largest consumers of Portuguese are the largest consumers of
rice in Europe), Porto’s many traditional rice in Europe), Porto’s many traditional
restaurants serve up hearty food with an restaurants serve up hearty food with an
emphasis on seafood and pork. emphasis on seafood and pork.
Don’t let the heavy medieval decor put Don’t let the heavy medieval decor put
you off: you off: Abadia do PortoAbadia do Porto (Rua do Ateneu (Rua do Ateneu
Comercial do Porto 22; abadiadoporto.Comercial do Porto 22; abadiadoporto.
com) has been wildly popular with locals com) has been wildly popular with locals
since 1939 for rustic traditions such as since 1939 for rustic traditions such as
roast baby lamb and garlicky shellfish rice roast baby lamb and garlicky shellfish rice
laden with lobster. More picturesque, laden with lobster. More picturesque,
perhaps, is perhaps, is EscondidinhoEscondidinho (Rua de Passos (Rua de Passos
Manuel 142; escondidinho.pt). Set within Manuel 142; escondidinho.pt). Set within
a beautiful room of panelled ceilings and a beautiful room of panelled ceilings and
ceramic wainscoting, it offers a great-ceramic wainscoting, it offers a great-
value regional gastronomic menu for €34. value regional gastronomic menu for €34.
Stop by Stop by CongaConga (Rua do Bonjardim 318) (Rua do Bonjardim 318)
to watch the pork for to watch the pork for bifanasbifanas (pulled pork (pulled pork
sandwiches) stewing in a big pot in the sandwiches) stewing in a big pot in the
window. The snack was created here in window. The snack was created here in
the ‘70s. the ‘70s.
Another famed Porto dish is the Another famed Porto dish is the
francesinhafrancesinha, a fried sandwich consisting , a fried sandwich consisting
of layers of pork, ham, sausage and of layers of pork, ham, sausage and
cheese, smothered in a gelatinous spicy cheese, smothered in a gelatinous spicy
red sauce. It’s a diet-killing interpretation red sauce. It’s a diet-killing interpretation
of the French of the French croque monsieurcroque monsieur. The best. The best
in Porto is reputedly served at in Porto is reputedly served at RegaleiraRegaleira
(Rua do Bonjardim 87), but try it at ‘40s (Rua do Bonjardim 87), but try it at ‘40s
time-warp tea house time-warp tea house CafeCafe AvizAviz (Rua de (Rua de
Aviz 27) and you can play a game of Aviz 27) and you can play a game of
billiards afterwards. billiards afterwards.One thing to note when eating in Porto One thing to note when eating in Porto- the bread, olives and cheese placed on – the bread, olives and cheese placed on
your table at most restaurants are not your table at most restaurants are not
free. Unless you wave them away you’ll free. Unless you wave them away you’ll
be charged a few euros, even if you leave be charged a few euros, even if you leave
them untouched.them untouched.
STEP IT UP A NOTCHSTEP IT UP A NOTCH
The Yeatman The Yeatman (Vila Nova de Gaia; (Vila Nova de Gaia;
the-yeatman-hotel.com/en), Porto’s only the-yeatman-hotel.com/en), Porto’s only
two-Michelin-starred restaurant, would two-Michelin-starred restaurant, would
be popular for its spectacular position be popular for its spectacular position
alone, with panoramic views of Porto alone, with panoramic views of Porto
from the Gaia side of the Douro. Happily, from the Gaia side of the Douro. Happily,
it also delivers gastronomically, with chef it also delivers gastronomically, with chef
Ricardo Costo serving up refined, Ricardo Costo serving up refined,
elevated dishes that extract the true elevated dishes that extract the true
flavours of Porto’s prodigious seafood flavours of Porto’s prodigious seafood
offerings. Beyond Costo’s food, the offerings. Beyond Costo’s food, the
restaurant, housed in the chic Relais & restaurant, housed in the chic Relais &
Chateaux-listed The Yeatman Hotel, is Chateaux-listed The Yeatman Hotel, is
all class, from the murals of tropical all class, from the murals of tropical
paradises to the perfectly judged service. paradises to the perfectly judged service.
Cafe AstoriaCafe Astoria (Praça da Liberdade 25) (Praça da Liberdade 25)
was once the city’s place to see and was once the city’s place to see and
be seen. Occupying a corner room be seen. Occupying a corner room
and terrace of what is now the and terrace of what is now the
Intercontinental Hotel, it’s enjoying Intercontinental Hotel, it’s enjoying
a regeneration as Astoria Restaurant, a regeneration as Astoria Restaurant,
overseen by the hotel’s executive chef, overseen by the hotel’s executive chef,
Pedro Sequeira, who is interpreting Pedro Sequeira, who is interpreting
traditional Portuguese cuisine with new traditional Portuguese cuisine with new
techniques and approaches. The room techniques and approaches. The room
has been restored to classic elegance has been restored to classic elegance
and, in keeping with the Astoria’s and, in keeping with the Astoria’s
importance at the heart of Porto’s importance at the heart of Porto’s
fashionable society, local designers have fashionable society, local designers have