NEED TO KNOW
- Money: ATMs are in short supply
in some parts of Peru, so take
US dollars for easy transfers. - Places to stay: Atemporal Hotel,
Lima; Explora Valle Sagrado,
Sacred Valley; Palacio del
Inka, Cuzco. - Dodgy tummy? Ask for muna^
(pronounced ‘moonia’) to settle it. - To travel in luxury to Machu Picchu,
choose the first-class train offered
by Inca Rail (incarail.com).
W
e take
a seat in a seat in
one of the one of the
gold-trimmed carriages of the Inca Rail gold-trimmed carriages of the Inca Rail
and are greeted with lively music, setting and are greeted with lively music, setting
the scene for dancing a little later to the the scene for dancing a little later to the
sound of sound of charangoscharangos (a small stringed (a small stringed
instrument). The train creaks out of the instrument). The train creaks out of the
station and heaves over narrow tracks. station and heaves over narrow tracks.
Cutlery clangs, glasses tinkle and horns Cutlery clangs, glasses tinkle and horns
blow; we are on our way to Machu Picchu. blow; we are on our way to Machu Picchu.
In Peru you can immerse yourself in In Peru you can immerse yourself in
incredible history and colourful culture incredible history and colourful culture
while enjoying all the comforts of the while enjoying all the comforts of the
21st century. Well known for its ancient 21st century. Well known for its ancient
ruins, the country has more recently had ruins, the country has more recently had
a bit of an ‘ah-ha’ moment in the culinary a bit of an ‘ah-ha’ moment in the culinary
world. Peruvians celebrate their pre-Incan world. Peruvians celebrate their pre-Incan
roots through the food they eat every day. roots through the food they eat every day.
The abundance of produce is championed The abundance of produce is championed
by restaurants and street vendors, and by restaurants and street vendors, and
people around the globe are taking note.people around the globe are taking note.
Begin your journey through Peru in Begin your journey through Peru in
its capital, Lima. Explore the stalls of the its capital, Lima. Explore the stalls of the
Mercado de SurquilloMercado de Surquillo to discover unique to discover unique
Peruvian fruits and marvel at the vast Peruvian fruits and marvel at the vast
variety of potatoes. Try the fish soup and variety of potatoes. Try the fish soup and
ceviche with a glass of ceviche with a glass of chichachicha – a delicious – a delicious
sweetened-corn drink that will leave your sweetened-corn drink that will leave your
grin purple. Then head to the Barranco grin purple. Then head to the Barranco
district for quirky restaurants, cafes and district for quirky restaurants, cafes and
bars – like Ayahuasca Resto Bar, with its bars – like Ayahuasca Resto Bar, with its
outstanding pisco sours. outstanding pisco sours.
Take a guided tour of Callao for the Take a guided tour of Callao for the
alternative street art and emerging alternative street art and emerging
designers, while downtown’s San Isidro designers, while downtown’s San Isidro
Street is great for local fashion. San Miguel Street is great for local fashion. San Miguel
is the university district and the best spot is the university district and the best spot
for a for a pan con chicharronpan con chicharron (pork sandwich), (pork sandwich),
which inspired the recipe on page 139. which inspired the recipe on page 139.
But Miraflores is the true restaurant hub, But Miraflores is the true restaurant hub,
playing host to the number five restaurant playing host to the number five restaurant
in the world, Central. The menu traverses in the world, Central. The menu traverses
Peru’s varied ecosystems, from the Andes Peru’s varied ecosystems, from the Andes
to the Sacred Valley. Also great are Maido, to the Sacred Valley. Also great are Maido,
number eight globally, for Nikkei cuisine, number eight globally, for Nikkei cuisine,
Amaz for its Amazonian-inspired menu and Amaz for its Amazonian-inspired menu and
Matria for modern Peruvian comfort food. Matria for modern Peruvian comfort food.
Take the short flight to cobblestoned Take the short flight to cobblestoned
Cuzco and the culture continues in the Cuzco and the culture continues in the
old streets of the city, from luxury hotels old streets of the city, from luxury hotels
with oxygenated air-con (the altitude!) with oxygenated air-con (the altitude!)
to glaze-dripping to glaze-dripping picaronespicarones (doughnuts) (doughnuts)
at roadside carts. San Pedro Market at roadside carts. San Pedro Market
overwhelms with piled-high cheeses, overwhelms with piled-high cheeses,
large bunches of fragrant herbs, colourful large bunches of fragrant herbs, colourful
chillies, barrels of olives, mounds of chillies, barrels of olives, mounds of
spices, bags of quinoa and glittering fresh spices, bags of quinoa and glittering fresh
fish. Check out San Blas for handcrafted fish. Check out San Blas for handcrafted
gifts and a streetful of massage and gifts and a streetful of massage and
pedicure vendors. Need coffee? Jack’s pedicure vendors. Need coffee? Jack’s
Cafe was opened by an Australian and is Cafe was opened by an Australian and is
one of the few places in Peru where you one of the few places in Peru where you
can get a flat white. Finish in and around can get a flat white. Finish in and around
the main square for a meal at one of the the main square for a meal at one of the
many pizza places (top pick, La Pizza many pizza places (top pick, La Pizza
Carlo), or for Peruvian fare, Pachapapa. Carlo), or for Peruvian fare, Pachapapa.
You can’t miss out on the Sacred Valley, You can’t miss out on the Sacred Valley,
with its huge mountains and valleys of with its huge mountains and valleys of
corn, amaranth and quinoa. Maybe it’s corn, amaranth and quinoa. Maybe it’sthe thin air, but the
natural beauty is dizzying. Trek to Maras natural beauty is dizzying. Trek to Maras
to see the spectacle of white pools of to see the spectacle of white pools of
salt covering a mountain, and stop at salt covering a mountain, and stop at
the village of Ollantaytambo, set on the the village of Ollantaytambo, set on the
Urubamba River, to learn about Incan Urubamba River, to learn about Incan
stone terraces and ancient ruins. In Pisac, stone terraces and ancient ruins. In Pisac,
you’ll be rewarded with markets hawking you’ll be rewarded with markets hawking
the best-value alpaca jumpers in Peru. the best-value alpaca jumpers in Peru.
Finally, of course, the Finally, of course, the piece de piece de
resistanceresistance, Machu Picchu. The Inca Rail , Machu Picchu. The Inca Rail
drops passengers in the town of Aguas drops passengers in the town of Aguas
Calientes to catch a bus for the final Calientes to catch a bus for the final
incline. Of course, for those game enough, incline. Of course, for those game enough,
there is the Inca Trail, where you can hike there is the Inca Trail, where you can hike
to what was once the main entrance to to what was once the main entrance to
the site, the Sun Gate, and watch the the site, the Sun Gate, and watch the
sunrise. However you get there, it’s an sunrise. However you get there, it’s an
awe-inspiring, pinch-yourself moment. awe-inspiring, pinch-yourself moment.136136 delicious.com.audelicious.com.au