exploitation of the New World, the
Spanish led the way with tomatoes.
Imagine Naples (a Spanish city across Imagine Naples (a Spanish city across
the 16th and 17th centuries) without the the 16th and 17th centuries) without the
pomodoro, the ubiquitous red fruit whose pomodoro, the ubiquitous red fruit whose
name derives from the words for ‘golden name derives from the words for ‘golden
apple’? There’s the French influence in apple’? There’s the French influence in
Piedmont, the Adriatic culture of Venice, Piedmont, the Adriatic culture of Venice,
and the border areas of the northeast and the border areas of the northeast
where regional specialties seem more where regional specialties seem more
Germanic than anything else – think Germanic than anything else – think
dumplings and flakey, Austrian-style dumplings and flakey, Austrian-style
pastries. The Greeks were here. The pastries. The Greeks were here. The
Saracens. The Etruscans... And each Saracens. The Etruscans... And each
period in history saw changes in cooking, period in history saw changes in cooking,
ingredients and diets. And the birth of ingredients and diets. And the birth of
local and regional differences.local and regional differences.
There’s the butter of the north – Milan There’s the butter of the north – Milan
swims in it, along with the famous swims in it, along with the famous risotto risotto
alla Milanesealla Milanese – using the rice of the – using the rice of the
neighbouring Po Valley. The ‘fat’ cities neighbouring Po Valley. The ‘fat’ cities
of Bologna, Modena and Parma love their of Bologna, Modena and Parma love their
lard: the famous lard: the famous piadinapiadina (flatbread) of (flatbread) of
the neighbouring Romagna coast around the neighbouring Romagna coast around
Ravenna and Rimini just wouldn’t be Ravenna and Rimini just wouldn’t bethe same without a good lashing of pork the same without a good lashing of pork
fat through the dough.fat through the dough.
Like southern Italy, Tuscany in the centre Like southern Italy, Tuscany in the centre
is all about olive oil. And peasant dishes is all about olive oil. And peasant dishes
made with beans and pulses, vegetables, made with beans and pulses, vegetables,
offal, leftover bread. Towards the west offal, leftover bread. Towards the west
coast and the Italian Riviera – around coast and the Italian Riviera – around
Genoa – the Mediterranean climate offers Genoa – the Mediterranean climate offers
beautiful veg like zucchini, eggplant and beautiful veg like zucchini, eggplant and
artichokes, paired with herbs like basil, artichokes, paired with herbs like basil,
thyme and oregano... the aromas and thyme and oregano... the aromas and
flavours of Provence, just next door.flavours of Provence, just next door.
Sardinia’s harshness lends itself to a diet Sardinia’s harshness lends itself to a diet
based on sheep and sheep milk products. based on sheep and sheep milk products.
Fearful of coastal invaders, the natives Fearful of coastal invaders, the natives
once turned their backs on the fruits of the once turned their backs on the fruits of the
sea for lamb, suckling pig and aged local sea for lamb, suckling pig and aged local
cheeses like pecorino (‘little sheep’).cheeses like pecorino (‘little sheep’).
And so it goes. We haven’t even begun And so it goes. We haven’t even begun
to talk about the many distinctive regional to talk about the many distinctive regional
foodstuffs and wines whose production is foodstuffs and wines whose production is
governed by the rules of the DOP system governed by the rules of the DOP system
((denominazione d’origine protettadenominazione d’origine protetta, ,
or protected designation of origin). or protected designation of origin).
It’s overwhelming. And fascinating. But, It’s overwhelming. And fascinating. But,
more importantly, authentically delicious.more importantly, authentically delicious.
And for anyone keen to discover more, And for anyone keen to discover more,
what a voyage of exploration lies ahead. what a voyage of exploration lies ahead.
Buon viaggioBuon viaggio and, as the Italians would and, as the Italians would
also say, also say, buon divertimentobuon divertimento (enjoy!) (enjoy!)CLOCKWISE (from left): plump
tomatoes at Venice’s Rialto
Market; children play in a
Tuscan village; orecchiette with
tuna, capers and rocket.
OPPOSITE: the food of the
Treviso region, in the northeast,
comes with Adriatic and
Germanic influences.PHOTOGRAPHY
MARK ROPER, TONY AMOS & EMMA LEE
Take the tour
- Calabria Piccia Calabrese
(Calabrian bread) - Campania Pizza
Napoletana; pizza bianca - Emilia-Romagna Piadina
(crispy flatbread); Bolognese - Liguria Pesto alla Genovese;
torta di carciofi (artichoke tart) - Lombardy Risotto alla
Milanese; panettone - Piedmont Torta salata di zucchini
e cipolle (zucchini, onion and
ricotta pie); torta di nocciola
(hazelnut cake) - Puglia Orecchiette with
broccoli rabe - Sardinia Mutton stew with
fregola; pane carasau
(music-paper bread) - Sicily Caponata (eggplant stew);
cassata (Easter cake) - Tuscany Pappa al pomodoro
(tomato and bread soup);
crostata di ricotta (ricotta tart) - Veneto Polenta con baccala
mantecato (polenta with creamy
salt cod); torta di riso (rice tart)
delicious.com.au 141