until golden. Transfer duck to a heavy-
based roasting pan, reserving fat. Add
carrot, onion, eschalots, garlic and herbs
to the duck fat and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 8 minutes or until
onion has softened.
Add porcini and tomato paste, and
cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes
or until darkened slightly. Increase heat
to high, add wine and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 3 minutes or until
thickened slightly. Add reserved steeping
liquid and stock. Bring to the boil, then
transfer to roasting pan with duck.
Cover pan with foil and roast for 2 hours
30 minutes or until duck is tender. Remove
foil, increase oven to 220°C and cook for
a further 40 minutes or until skin is crisp.
Remove from oven and rest for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, for the semolina, combine
milk and 2 cups (500ml) water in a large
saucepan over medium heat. Bring to
a simmer and whisk in semolina. Cook,
whisking constantly, for 3-4 minutes or
until thick. Add butter and cheeses,
and stir well to combine.
Divide semolina among serving bowls.
Top with duck. Spoon over cooking liquid,
season and scatter with herbs to serve.STINGING NETTLE, the barbed and
bristled herb, might have a fearsome
reputation, but it tastes exquisite
once vanquished in boiling water.
“You can find it everywhere in Italy,
even on the side of the road,” says
Ferrara-born chef Alberto Fava,
who has long deployed the wild
ingredient in dishes at Tipo 00,
Melbourne’s primo pasta bar.
The flowering plant makes an
appearance in Fava’s recipes on
these pages in a creamy risotto. “My
grandmother would blanch it, roughly
chop it and pair it with pasta,” Fava
says, “but this risotto recipe is a more
refined way to incorporate it.”
Rustic yet refined describes Tipo 00
as well. The revered restaurant,
which opened on Little Bourke Street
in 2014, is the handiwork of Fava,
fellow chef Andreas Papadakis and
sommelier Luke Skidmore. Eating
here is an education in pasta. Diners
select from conchiglie, casarecce and
tagliolini, while Fava and Papadakis
prepare the floury delights fromtheir open kitchen. “Everyone
in the world loves pasta,” says
Athens-born Papadakis, who
then admits that some early
commentators voiced scepticism
about opening a pasta bar in these
carb-phobic times. Fortunately,
they were proved wrong.
In May, team Tipo 00 unveiled
a sibling restaurant adjacent to the
original. With whitewashed brick
walls, hand-painted floors and
leather banquettes, Osteria Ilaria
is still Italian-inflected, but with
a broader vocabulary. That means
dishes such as Spanish anchovies,
baby octopus and duck with nettle
gnocchi; the nettle is a constant.
Some dedicated clients have been
swinging between the two eateries,
eager to sample from both. “We only
have one pasta on the menu in the
new place, so we’ve had regulars
coming in for drinks and appetisers
at Tipo and dinner at Ilaria,” says
Papadakis. It’s the Melbourne
version of la dolce vita.Alberto Fava and Andreas Papadakis
are the perfectionists behind Melbourne
restaurant Tipo 00.PA S TA
PINNACLE
MARKET BASKET
- BROAD BEANS have a nutty
taste and creamy texture – throw
them in salads or smash them onto
toast for a thrifty change from avo.
Better still, frozen is a perfectly
acceptable alternative to fresh. - KINGFISH is available farmed
from South Australia or wild-caught,
and is a prized sashimi fish. Its
flavoursome, moist flesh is silky
perfection paired with citrus. - DUCK is an oily bird whose
rich-tasting meat holds up well to
strong flavours. Team it with Asian
spices or French aromatics. - STINGING NETTLES are tasty
(and harmless) when cooked and
add novelty value to a dish.
Choose young shoots and small
leaves, and always use protection.
@tipo_00
delicious.com.au/food-files
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INTERVIEW
GEORGE EPAMINONDAS
MARKET BASKET
SANDRA BRIDEKIRK
TIPO 00
PHOTOGRAPHY
NICOLE CLEARY