Donatella Versace’s glamazon ditched
her signature seductive looks for a
sporty, streetwear-influenced wardrobe
that recalled the best of Versace’s
1990s diffusion line, Versus. Quilted
down jackets and oversized parkas
were teamed with body-con athletic
tops, wispy chiffon double-layered skirts
and vibrant knits, often embellished.
The first look set the tone. Peeking out
from under the hem of the short, black
double-breasted coatdress (worn over
a white shirt) was a sheer black slip,
the word equality embroidered on it in
block capitals. This was luxe streetwear
with a message, spelled out on beanie
hats, scarves and T-shirts: LOYALTY,
COURAGE, POWER.
Creative director Demna Gvasalia is synonymous with his street-
based cult label, Vetements. His off-kilter aesthetic, rooted in
subverting notions of luxury and chic, sees him continuing to
play with proportions and materials for the high fashion house.
Case in point: the asymmetrically fastened coats that opened
the show. They actually unbutton into normal coats with extra
volume on one side, a nod to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s signature
tailoring in the 1950s. Elsewhere, there were impeccably cut
pencil skirts made from car mats, chic clutch bags fashioned
from car wing mirrors, and statement earrings repurposed
from diamante belt buckles. But lest it all became too “street,”
ladylike heels and good ol’ leopard print kept things classic.VERSACE
BALENCIAGA
MILAN
PARIS