6
LE CHIC
Hubert (15 Bligh St; restauranthubert.com)
opened last year to a rapturous reception from critics,
but does it measure up to the hype? For the most
part, though we feel that dinner trumps lunch. The
subterranean space, with its wood-panelled walls and
vermilion curtains, is better appreciated in the evening.
And signature dishes, like its chicken fricassee complete
with head and claws, are only available then, too. Chef
Dan Pepperell is a whiz at reinventing hoary French ideas.
His modern update of oeuf en gelée, old-school moulded
jelly with egg yolk, comprises bonito jelly, trout roe and
caviar. It’s a blast. Factor in an exceptional wine list and
romantic ambience, and a pleasurable night out is assured.LOCAVORE.