delicious Australia — November 2017

E

ven after almost three decades

behind the pans, and with a

clutch of revered restaurants in

Melbourne, Scott Pickett still

becomes anxious when his toughest

critic is in the house: his 12-year-old

son, Harrison. The eldest of his three

children is an aspiring food reviewer

who has dined at ESP, Pickett’s

Northcote fine-diner, on three

occasions. “His only condition is that

he doesn’t want to know what he’s

eating,” says Pickett, in reference

to kid-challenging fare such as duck,

venison and wallaby. “We only tell

him after the fact.”

Though he spent several years

toiling in Michelin-starred restaurants,

Pickett is not one of those tortured

chefs. He is affable, obliging and

nurturing, a country boy from a small

town in South Australia who ascended

to the top of his profession with

resolve. He surrounds himself with

talented individuals, including head

chefs Stephen Nairn at ESP and Stuart

McVeigh at Saint Crispin, and acts as a

“floating gun for hire”. When Pickett

was coming up the ranks, chef Phil

Howard at The Square in London was

deeply influential. “He taught me that

you can be a gentleman, have fun in

the kitchen and explore a marriage

of flavours on the plate,” he says.

That devotion to piquancy is evident in

the recipes on these pages, too. Pickett

describes them as an ode to springtime

produce, warm weather (“As the Spanish

know, chilled soups are a great idea.”)

and pure nostalgia. The slow-cooked

lamb is an adaptation of a beloved dish

his grandmother used to make.

Pickett is preparing to open his fifth

venture, a fire-fuelled brasserie in South

Yarra, early next year, yet he still finds

time to cook for his kids on weekends.

Isn’t he tempted to pick up all the fixings

at his own deli at the Queen Vic Market?

“I find it therapeutic,” he says. “I enjoy

the process of doing it myself.”

Lessons learned well make for fun kitchens

and happy marriages of flavour in Melbourne

chef Scott Pickett’s always-popular venues.

NICE GUYS

FINISH FIRST

delicious.com.au/food-files

For our seasonal produce guides, ingredient guide For our seasonal produce guides, ingredient guide

and more recipes from top Australian chefs.and more recipes from top Australian chefs.

MARKET BASKET

• ZUCCHINI can be julienned for
  Paleo ‘pasta’, grilled, or shaved into
  salads, but this mini marrow really
  shines in baby form – stuff its flowers
  with cheese and fry until golden.


• LETTUCE is far more than simply
  salad: try it in soups, juices, sautees,
  or as a low-carb wrap or edible cup.


• SALMON is rich in omega-3 fatty
  acids, so skip the fish oil capsules
  and treat yourself to salmon raw,
  smoked, sous vide or on the barbie.


• MANGOES are brilliant in sweets,
  but they also add a pop of colour to
  savoury dishes. Whip up a mango
  salsa for fish tacos, or grill cheeks
  to serve with barbecued meats.
  @scottpickettchef

MANGO, LIME, MASCARPONE

AND MERINGUEAND MERINGUE

SERVES 4SERVES 4

4 eggwhites4 eggwhites

200g caster sugar200g caster sugar

2 Kensington Pride mangoes (substitute 2 Kensington Pride mangoes (substitute

best available), cut into 5mm-thick slicesbest available), cut into 5mm-thick slices

Finely grated zest and juice of 2Finely grated zest and juice of 2^11 // 22 limes, limes,

plus extra lime cheeks to serve (we plus extra lime cheeks to serve (we

used Woolworths fresh limes)used Woolworths fresh limes)

2 cups (500g) mascarpone2 cups (500g) mascarpone

Preheat oven to 90°C. Line 2 baking Preheat oven to 90°C. Line 2 baking

trays with baking paper.trays with baking paper.

Place eggwhites and a pinch of fine Place eggwhites and a pinch of fine

salt in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk salt in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk

attachment and whisk to soft peaks. Add attachment and whisk to soft peaks. Add

sugar, 1 tbs at a time, whisking constantly sugar, 1 tbs at a time, whisking constantly

until all sugar is added. Whisk for a further until all sugar is added. Whisk for a further

8 minutes or until thick and glossy. Using 8 minutes or until thick and glossy. Using

a palette knife, spread mixture over a palette knife, spread mixture over

prepared trays in a smooth 3mm-thick prepared trays in a smooth 3mm-thick

layer. Bake for 2 hours, swapping trays layer. Bake for 2 hours, swapping trays

halfway, or until crisp and dry. Set aside halfway, or until crisp and dry. Set aside

to cool completely, then break into shards.to cool completely, then break into shards.

Toss mango and zest and juice of Toss mango and zest and juice of^11 // 22 a

lime in a bowl. Stand for 1 hour to marinate.

Meanwhile, combine mascarpone with Meanwhile, combine mascarpone with

remaining lime zest and juice.remaining lime zest and juice.

Serve mango, mascarpone mixture and Serve mango, mascarpone mixture and

meringue shards with extra lime cheeks.meringue shards with extra lime cheeks.

MARKET BASKET

SANDRA BRIDEKIRK

SCOTT PICKETT PORTRAIT

DOMINIQUE CHERRY