Trends may come and go, but quality
artisanal spirits and boutique producers
are here to stay, says Mike Bennie.FRUITFUL
FUTURE
LIKE FASHION, DRINKS go through
phases of popularity. The ’70s gifted us
sweet rieslings and the rise of cask wine,
and the ’80s meant you could dive into an
ice-cold wine cooler such as West Coast.
The ’90s gave us creamy cocktail
culture, where Toblerones and Mudslides
led us down the garden path. Then the
noughties came, bringing premium
vodkas and, more recently, fruit-infused
wines and ‘frosé’, a wine/ice adult slushie.
Now we seem to be shifting into an
era where a new ethos is influencing
our drinks culture.
Michael Chiem is one of Australia’s
leading drinks people at Sydney’s brilliant
PS40 bar, which specialises in house-
made carbonated drinks. “We’re trying
to push the boundaries, using ingredients
that aren’t well used,” he says. “We’re
fermenting drinks in-house and preparing
cocktails and non-alcoholic pairings like
chefs would. Importantly, we’re seeing
greater sustainability in drinks-making
and inventive ways of using ‘leftovers’.”
Luke Ashton is the multi-award-winning
co-proprietor of This Must be the Place
in Sydney. He sees a greater emphasis on
health. “People are looking for a fresher
palate and lighter alcohol,” he says.
Ashton also cites increased interest in
local products. “It’s important to look for
artisanal producers of spirits, wine and
beer to differentiate and make our drinking
culture more potent.” He predicts a rise
in interest in fruit distillates and high-
quality infused spirits.
Angus Burton, from Boutique spirits
importer Spirit People, agrees. “I think the
next thing is a continuation of local spirits
and wine, and more sophisticated
benchmarking in terms of spiced spirits
and herbal styles. Top-quality vermouths,
local herbal-infused grappas – someone
has to have a good crack at a local Aperol/
Campari with native botanicals.”
Here’s my pick of unsung hero products
emerging in our drinking culture.ROMANO E LIDIA
LEVI GRAPPA ALLA
CAMOMILLA 2014, $169
A remarkable grappa that
comes from an old family
recipe, this is a wildly
aromatic, gently floral
spirit infused with
chamomile flowers. It’s
a wonderful drink on
its own, best enjoyed
after dinner.BROUHAHA RASPBERRY
SAISON (CAN), $7.50
Raspberries grown near the
brewery in Maleny,
Queensland, are used in
this killer beer. Brouhaha
does things just a little
differently, and the
pleasingly bitter saison
tang here keeps the palate
bright and refreshing.
Such wicked drinking.ARGALÀ ARTISANAL
PASTIS, $89 Pastis is one
of those really quaint
drinks that requires a little
ceremony to bring out
its best. Serve over ice in
a tall, small glass with a jug
of iced water alongside to
dilute to taste. The Argalà
is one of the world’s best
and most anise-rich in
flavour. Take it in small sips.STONE DOG MEADERY
HEADING TO THE COAST
MEAD, $20 This clean,
traditional-style mead is
made with raw, unfiltered
macadamia honey and isn’t
too sweet, so there’s a lot
of moreish drinkability
involved. Serve lightly
chilled to savour the
pure honey flavours. It’s
thrilling to see this style.HARDYS HIDDEN
ORCHARD STRAWBERRY
FRUIT WINE, $13 Okay,
so the wine purists are
going to have me hung,
drawn and quartered, but
this doesn’t taste bad with
a good chill. Indeed, it’s
fun, thirst-slaking and
something different to
sip on. Serve it really cold
over ice with a fruit platter.LAURENT CAZOTTES
GUIGNES ET GUINS
(WILD CHERRY)
500ML, $95 The French
master of fruit liqueurs,
Laurent Cazottes, uses
local orchards to produce
exquisite distillates. This is
ultra-fragrant, pure-tasting
and superb served solo,
or blended in a delicious
spritz cocktail.@mikebennie101 @mikebennie101delicious.com.au/drinks
To peruse more of Mike’s
favourite drinks.DRINKS.
30 delicious.com.au