Bowls International — November 2017

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54 BOWLS INTERNATIONAL November 2017 http://www.bowlsinternational.com

GREENCRAFT|John Quinn


M


owing should continue through the
autumn and winter months except when
the surface is very wet or frosty.
Raise the blades to 7 or 8mm and
keep the green mown as and when required. That
means making sure the grass never gets too long.
Long grass in winter time is asking for trouble with
fungal diseases such as fusarium. The taller canopy
creates a micro-climate at the soil surface around the
base of the plants. This can cause the area to stay
slightly warmer and wetter than it is above, creating
perfect conditions for fungal spores to get active.
Allowing the grass to get too long will also
encourage a broadening of the leaf, making the grass
coarser and difficult to get back into fine shape for the
new season next year.
You should apply the general rules for mowing as
you would at any other time, never taking away more
than a third of the leaf tissue at one time.
So, depending on growth rate and weather, this
might involve a weekly, fortnightly or monthly cut.
Regular mowing also helps to keep the green free of
other debris and importantly, makes sure that someone
is at the green to pick up on any problems that arise.
Sharp blades set with zero contact are important,
possibly even more so in winter as there is so little
scope for recovery from injury in winter.

Despite the tendency for clubs to put the green to bed at this time of year, nothing could be worse
for the green than to walk away and let it fend for itself at this time of year. In fact, the winter
months offer a fantastic opportunity for greenkeepers to help the green recover from the pressure
that was piled on it during the season.

NUTRITION
The Autumn Renovation works should
have included an application of a high
potassium (K), granular fertiliser and I
find that it is very useful to repeat this
in December or January to ensure that
Potassium is available to help plants deal
with the winter pressures.
Potassium activates the enzymes used
in protein, sugar, and starch synthesis
and is vital to many plant processes.
The correct amount of plant Potassium
improves cold hardiness and disease
resistance. Potassium is highly soluble
and leaches easily from sandy soils so
a December or January top up will be
helpful.
Although moss is usually said to be
a lover of wet soil, I find that the areas
most affected by moss on bowling greens
are simply those where the grass has
thinned due to pressures from play or
disorders such as Localised Dry Patch.
When the sward is thick and dense,
there is no room for moss, so the ultimate
aim of any greenkeeping programme
should be to encourage a dense sward of
fine perennial grasses.
However, in the meantime there will be

Greenkeeping Tasks for Late Autumn and Winter


AERATION
The pressure put on the turf and soil through the bowling
season is considerable and this results in compaction.
Compaction is simply downward pressure on the surface
that squeezes the soil particles more closely together,
reducing the pore space in the soil.
Macro pore space (Aeration Porosity) is essential for
good drainage and well oxygenated soil, so a programme
of deep slit tine aeration that continues through the winter
months is a vital part of the greenkeeping programme.
Winter is by far the best time to get on top of compaction.
This isn’t a one off operation. Deep slit tining should
continue right through the October to March period and
twice a month isn’t too much. Ideally you would arrange
for this to be done just ahead of mowing, so that the
mower’s roller can settle down any tails or slight raised
areas created by the action of the spiker.
The type of machine I prefer to use for this uses knife-
like tines on discs. These tines can penetrate to around
125-150mm and leave a large partially circular slice
through the soil, but leave only a small slit on the turf
surface.

problems with moss to deal with and that
usually means Iron.
In almost every soil analysis I do
for bowling clubs, Iron has built up to
excessive levels in the soil, so adding
more has to be considered carefully.
To keep moss in check and stop it
spreading through the winter months it is
best to use Chelated Liquid Iron as it is
more readily available to the plants and
doesn’t get locked up in the soil, adding
to the problem.
This means you can work on the
underlying problems that have allowed
moss to take hold.
One place that moss will readily take
over is any patch of thinned grass cover
and scars left over from fungal disease
outbreaks are a prime target.

DISEASE
Of course, any disease outbreak should
be taken seriously in winter, as it can
spread quickly and kill off a lot of grass.
Traditionally this would have meant
applying a preventative fungicide over
the entire green in autumn, but this
approach has deep agronomic flaws.
Fungicides are indiscriminate and kill

Silt tining machine

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