Cruising World – August 2019

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before. It sounded like a thousand wild

animals clawing at my door. My roof was

torn from above my head while I sat and

waited, praying I too wouldn’t be ripped

from the corner in which I crouched.”

Jeffer y, who has lived in Barbuda his

whole life, had never known a tropical

storm as ferocious as Irma.

He spoke of his childhood, in which he

was allowed to roam free over the island

and swim across the mile-wide lagoon to

explore the pink sandy beaches and

witness nature at its fi nest. His love for

the island was evident—it showed in his

eyes. He is a man who is so in touch with

the landscape, so familiar with his island’s

every cove and creek, and so passionate

about his pristine piece of paradise, I knew

I’d chosen the right guide for my tour.

George and I climbed aboard his skiff

and traveled to the Frigate Bird Sanctuary,

which is a refuge for the island’s

national bird. The brackish water of the

lagoon was a stark contrast to the Carib-

bean Sea, divided by no more than 100

yards of pristine white sand, sprinkled

with millions of pieces of tiny pink shells.

Jeffery’s 60 hp Yamaha skimmed his boat

effortlessly over the water, and I enjoyed

the cool breeze on my face. Even though

there were many shallow areas all over the

lagoon, Jeffery didn’t require a chart or

iPad to navigate the waters; he knew this

place like the back of his wrinkled hand.

With 20,000 birds making the clumps

of mangrove bushes their home, Barbuda’s

Frigate Bird Sanctuary holds the most sig-

nifi cant colony in the world. Jeffery took

pride in the fact that even the Galapagos

Islands couldn’t compete with what

Barbuda has to offer. The ride to the breed-

ing grounds took no more than 10 minutes

from the town, and along the way, Jeffery

made a stop to show us a full-size shipping

container, lying upended in the mangroves.

It had fl own 3 miles through the air during

Irma and had thankfully landed away from

the town. The sight was staggering; the

force of Mother Nature was astounding

to see, yet, like the local population, the

mangroves simply kept on growing and

surviving as they have always done.

As we approached the birds, their large

black bodies, with wingspans up to 7 feet,

could be seen soaring overhead. The

water was shallow, and the birds were

nestled in low trees. We were able to

motor within feet of them, their beady

eyes inquisitive yet unperturbed by our

presence. Male and female, young and

old, they sat quietly together, the gentle

breeze rustling their feathers. The males

were spectacles, with giant red throat

pouches, apparently used to attract the

females. The noise of their clicking beaks

could be heard all around, and the smell

was pungent and offensive. However, the

unbelievable experience was the sort you

would have but once in a lifetime.

Upon returning to the one and only

settlement on the island, we paid a visit to

what was left of the village of Codrington.

Sadly, piles of rubble lined the streets, and

tents were erected around different parts

of the town. Despite the devastation and

destruction, the locals were warm and

welcoming, and I found the donkeys and

deer that wandered freely to be endearing.

A visit to Barbuda is all about nature, and

beauty abounds on this incredible island.

However, don’t expect hotels, restaurants

or infrastructure. Come with your boat

provisioned and your tanks full, and stay

until you can no longer be self-suffi cient.

There is talk that some ambitious

investors want to bring Barbuda into the

21st century, an idea strongly opposed by

many Barbudans. Yet, with anything un-

touched and unspoiled in this world, it is

only a matter of time before that changes.

With perhaps some of the most prime re-

al estate in the world, a visit to this small

part of our planet is something you should

do sooner rather than later. The pink sand

and turquoise water will leave you with

a feeling of awe upon arrival, something

akin to loss and longing when you pull

anchor, raise your sails and fl oat away.

Erin Carey and her family are currently cruis-

ing the Caribbean. Follow along with their ad-

ventures on their website (sailingtoroam.com).

WAYPOINTS

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63º W 60º W

BARBUDA

Puerto Rico

CA

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B E A N S E A

VENEZUELA

18º N

15º N

12º N

66º W

0 75 150

Nautical Miles

ANTIGUA

More than just beautiful beaches

(above left), Barbuda is also the home

of the largest frigate bird sanctuary in

the world (above).