J ULY 2 0 19 MOTORCYCLE MOJO 47
shoulder and a relaxed 70 km speed
limit. The pavement was almost always
in perfect condition, and what it lacks in
curves, it makes up for in historic stops
every few kilometres. It was lightly
travelled – even on Memorial Day
weekend – and the ratio of bikes to cars
was better than average.
I stopped at Mount Locust, the only
remaining of more than 50 inns once
found along the Trace. At Route 552,
I turned west and followed Rodney
Road, a wonderfully winding back road
through thick forest to see Windsor
primitive campgrounds on the park-
way. The night was so clear that even
the half-moon cast shadows, and so
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trees that it looked like Christmas. Two
owls asked each other “Who?” far into
the night.
I awoke well rested to a choir
of songbirds, complete with the
Ruins, an 1861 plantation mansion
that survived the Civil War only to
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remains are crumbling columns and
rusting ironwork.
Enough For One Day
Light was beginning to fade as I pulled
into Rocky Springs, one of three free but
DARK CLOUDS BEGAN TO
THREATEN, SO I PULLED
OVER TO BUTTON,
ZIP AND VELCRO EVERY
OPENING IN MY GEAR
In 1946, Elvis Presley’s
mother brought her son to
Tupelo Hardware to buy a
bicycle. Once they arrived,
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Elvis’ eye. Unwilling
to buy a gun, she
compromised on a guitar.
Tupelo Hardware remains
almost completely as it
was in 1946.