22 passagemaker.com July/August 2018
Troubleshooter
And once you gain access, not only can
the small screws be difficult to remove but
they are also far too easy to drop in the
bilge. Speedseal (speedseal.com) offers an
aftermarket cover plate with larger knurled
fasteners to facilitate easy removal.
With the cover plate removed, the next
step is extracting the impeller. The fit can
be snug and the impeller difficult to re-
move. Prying out the impeller with a screw-
driver should be avoided as it will damage
the pump housing. Impeller removal tools
are available for purchase, and they work
much the way a corkscrew works to open
a wine bottle. If you do not have the cor-
rect tool on board, you should first spray
a lubricant into the housing and onto the
impeller. Then bump the starter once or
twice to force the impeller to rotate—the lu-
bricant will now be dispersed between the
impeller tips and the metal housing, mak-
ing removal easier. Grab the vanes with
a pair of pliers and pull straight out. On
higher horsepower engines—roughly 300
horsepower and higher—many of the im-
pellers have a threaded insert that allows
you to use a bolt or special tool to extract
the impeller from the housing.
Once the impeller has been removed,
you must decide on the next step. Now
that you have gone this far do you really
want to put the old impeller back in, even
if it looks fine? If it looks okay, the old one
might make a good spare. If limited ac-
cess or skills make replacement difficult,
replace it. If you are heading out on a long
or challenging passage, replace it.
If you want to try to reuse the impel-
ler, a close inspection should be the next
step. The impeller vanes will be bent over
Left: Deep wear grooves in this cover plate will
reduce pump eiciency. Opposite: This cam
should be replaced as the pitting will wear
away the impeller. Below: This impeller has
failed; the missing pieces of the vanes (lower
right) were blocking the heat exchanger.
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