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’ve seen Queen Charlotte
serene. I’ve seen it sour. But
either way, I love the place.
Because the area offers some
of the finest boating in the
South Island, if not the
country. Here, the boating, camping and fishing
are only part of the attraction; an added bonus
is the fascinating window into the history and
culture of New Zealand.
I’ve burnt a lot of fuel in these waters over
the past seven years but by no means consider
myself an expert boatie nor someone with special
knowledge of the area. But I’ve certainly taken the
time and effort to explore as much as I can within
the limitations of our 5.3m Fi-Glass Senator.
Picton Marina is a wonderful gateway to
Queen Charlotte; sheltered, roomy ramps,
floating jetties, ample parking and facilities.
Once you’ve launched it’s just a five-minute slow
cruise through the marina to Picton Bay and the
expanse beyond.
You can also launch at Waikawa Marina – just
five minutes along the road and, while smaller
than Picton, it still offers plenty of room and
first-class facilities. It also cuts 20 minutes off
your boat journey if you’re heading up the sound.
A smaller community-managed slipway at the far
end of Waikawa Bay offers a cheaper option to
launch but parking can be at a premium.
No matter where you launch, one thing is
perfectly clear once you clear of the marina –
you’ve got plenty of options. To port is Grove
Arm, and to starboard the sound itself. Grove
Arm is generally calmer, more sheltered and offers
waterskiing lanes at Ngakuta Bay, Davies Bay and
Bottle Bay. Grove Arm is also home to some very
attractive camping grounds popular with boaties.
In the sound itself, Kaumototo Bay, a
10-minute cruise to the other side of the sound,
also offers great waterskiing. But a word of
caution: the ski lane runs clockwise – contrary
to international convention and different to the
other ski lanes found in the Marlborough Sounds.
This is due to the topography of the shoreline.
The anomaly can create a bit of confusion, but
hey, you’re on holiday so take a deep breath and
relax. It’s a beautifully sheltered, sandy beach
that can be safely used at high or low tide. With
a sloping grassy picnic area and public toilets, it’s
always popular.
If you want to ski further up the sound, there
are lanes at Kaipakirikiri Bay and Cherry Bay
within the larger Ruakaka Bay.
CRUISING
If watersports aren’t your thing, just 15 minutes
from Picton is Lochmara Lodge, nestled in
Lochmara Bay and a neat spot for a coffee. It’s a
busy place but the staff are friendly and always
ready to help you moor at the jetty or ferry you
ashore from one of their moorings.
If you’re boating up the sound towards the
open sea one of the first major landmarks you’ll
come across is Dieffenbach Point where the inter-
island ferries turn sharply as they enter or exit
Tory Channel/Kura Te Au.
Obviously, boaties need to stay clear of the ferries
and from experience, it pays to keep even further
afield than what’s recommended, particularly
around this point. These large ferries can churn out
significant wake as they navigate this turn.
I once ventured a bit too close and wore a wall
of water over the bow and into the cockpit. A very
I
feature
Discovering
the Sounds
WORDS AND
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
TOM FRASER