Make a Copper Prototype
Photo 1 Before starting a project with
precious metals, it’s a good idea to
make models using diff erent varia-
tions. Curving the metal into concave
or convex shapes changes a bangle
size depending on the starting stock.
Making your samples from pure copper
is a good idea as it works like pure
silver; it’s soft when annealed, but does
work-harden from the hammer blows.
The domed metal has the advantage of
being about one third the weight of solid
half round wire. Diff erent starting stock
widths will change bangle’s proportions
and look. Each stake and hammer cho-
sen will be major design factors in the
fi nished design. Keep the samples with a
record of the starting blank and how you
worked the metal. It’s very hard to tell
later as the hammering can change the
starting shape dramatically.
Photo 2 From the copper samples that
were made I decided to have the two
domed shapes fl anking a textured
concave center. By making all three
blanks 8¼" x 5 ⁄ 16 " x 18 gauge (21 cm x
8 mm x 1), I made the center concave
MATERIALS
18 gauge copper sheet; 8¼" x 5⁄16"
(21 cm x 8 mm)
18 gauge fi ne silver sheet; 8¼" x
5 ⁄16" (21 cm x 8 mm)TOOLS
FRETZ TOOLS: HMR-1 Planishing
Hammer, HMR-3 Narrow Cross
Peen Hammer, HMR-7 Nylon
Insert Hammer, H-1L Stake
Holder, M-107 Extra Small
Concave Stake, M-113 20mm
Convex Stake, M-114 10mm
Convex Stake, M-114A 5mm
Convex Stake, M-117 Flat Cuff
Stake
FABRICATION AND HAND:
Bench or work table, #2 hand
fi le, #2 crossing fi le, jewelers saw
frame, bench pin
FINISHING: Flexible shaft and
mandrels with buff s, buffi ng
motor and 3 inch buff s, bobbing
compound, White Diamond
compound, 4 inch hard buff and
Grey Star compound for steel,
220 and 320 emery cloth
SOLDERING AND ANNEALING:
jewelers torch setup, hard solder,
handy fl uxSOURCES
Many of the tools and materials
for this project are available from
well-stocked jewelry supply
vendors, many of whom can be
found in our Advertisers’ Index,
page 71.PURE SILVER IS SILKY WHITE, and incredibly
malleable and soft when annealed. Because of how soft it is, it is usually
alloyed with copper to make sterling. By hammering the pure silver and
forming it into curved shapes, you can make a piece of work-hardened
and therefore wearable jewelry that takes advantage of the beauty and
non-tarnishing characteristics of this metal. The same processes also make it
possible to have a bold shape that is quite lightweight.
It’s easy to vary the bangles in this project. They would look quite diff erentif other hammers were used for the texturing. Diff erences in starting stock
widths and the amount of curvature would totally change the design
outcome. And since bangles are often worn in multiples, the more variations
the better.
12
bangle noticeably thinner than the
outer domed ones. The contrast of the
bangles’ widths, along with diff erent
textures, are the main design elements.
NOTE: The stock was sheared from 18
gauge pure silver sheet but could also
have been bought as fl at wire.
Photo 3 Cut and fi le the ends so they are
perfectly true when they meet.
Bend the ends with fl at pliers so the
area to be soldered is fl at. I used cross
locking tweezers to hold the bangle on
a hard charcoal block and closed the
seam using white handy fl ux with a 5
mm wire length of 20 gauge hard silver
solder.3
January/February 2016^35