8 / CLOSE VALVE
Once you’ve reached the green range on the gauge, stop pumping and
immediately close the ball valve. This will prevent air escaping from the
pump section, which might make you think there’s a leak. If the pressure
gauge stays steady for ten minutes, your loop is airtight. If it drops,
tighten all your fittings and try again.4 / AT TAC H TO VAC A N T P O R T
The vacant port in your loop can be on any component, but ideally
shouldn’t involve detaching existing tubing, as that join won’t then get
pressure tested. It’s fine to use an angled attachment if the tester is too
big to fit in your case.
5 / AT TAC H P U M P S E C T I O N
The leak tester’s pump section isn’t installed out of the box, but anyone
who has used a bicycle pump will be familiar with the parts. You just
need to screw the end of the cable onto the end of the ball-valve section
of the pump.
7 / PUMP UP TO 0.50.75BAR
The pressure gauge includes a green section that indicates the
required pressure to mimic the pressure your loop will face. Start
pumping and aim to stop between 0.5 and 0.75bar. If the gauge stays
at or near zero, check the pump section is attached securely, and
there’s no sound of air leaking from anywhere else in the loop.6 / ENSURE 2WAY VALVE IS OPEN
Unlike older pressure testers, the EWKB tester includes a ball valve.
This can be opened and closed to prevent air leakage. Before you start
pumping, make sure the valve is open by lining up the lever with the
pump cable
9 / USE TISSUE PAPER
Pressure testers are great, but they don’t account for heat expansion.
It’s worth adding tissue paper to your fittings and running a stress
test to warm up the coolant for an hour. While they’re rare, slow leaks
caused by the coolant and components warming will be revealed, with
coloured coolant leaving a stain on the tissue paper.