Boat International – April 2018

E

venmoreexcitingthangazingatgorgeous

gemstonesininspiringdesignsisowningsome.If

youarenotluckyenoughtohaveinheritedabulging

jewelbox,buildingacollectionisrewardingand,inaworld

of information, not as daunting as you might expect.

Booksandexhibitionsaboundonhistoricjewelleryand

stones.Thesehelpyoudiscoverwhichstylesappeal,and

whether you prefer vintage, contemporary, or both. If the

samedesignerscropupoftenonyour“want”list,theyare

whotoaimfor.AsEmilyBarber,directorofjewelleryat

Bonhams,putsit:“Whilepricesforstonessuchascoloured

diamondshaverisendramatically,jewelleryisdesigned

tobewornandyoushouldbuypiecesthat‘speak’toyou,

although jewels have always been portable wealth.”

If antiques float your boat there are two

approaches–buyingatauctionorthrough

reputable retailers. Before the thrill of the

bid,Barberadvisesyoushouldobserve

auctionsandgotoviewings.“You

canhandlethepieces,examinethe

craftsmanshipandtrythemon,

withoutanypressure,”shesays.

“Check the rigorous condition

report–qualityiskeyandthe

estimate will reflect its findings.”

Estimates are realistic in the

current market but, she says, “fine

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

Previous spread,

from left to right:

53.95ct emerald

and 30.26ct

white diamonds

necklace, POA,

davidmorris.com;

18kt white gold

cocktail ring with

green tourmaline and

white diamonds,

POA, garrard.com;

18kt yellow

gold, diamond

and emerald

bracelet, POA,

aravartanian.com;

18kt white and yellow

gold bracelet set with

diamonds and

emeralds, POA,

amrapalijewels.com;

emerald butterfly

earrings (diamonds

2.39ct, emeralds

4.32ct), POA,

grafdiamonds.com;

MYA Collection

emerald and

diamond earrings,

£34,400,

williamandson.com;

Colombian emerald

(10 6. 2 8 c t) a n d

diamond (49.38ct)

necklace, set in

white gold, POA,

moussaief-

jewellers.com;

Amore ring in 18kt

gold set with

Marquise-cut

emeralds and white

diamonds, £8,900,

niquesafinejewellery.

com;

Flotsam & Jetsam

earrings, with

cabochon emerald

and 3.65ct diamonds

in 18kt white and

yellow gold, POA,

jessicamccormack.

com;

18kt white gold

emerald and

diamond drop

earrings, £15,500,

calleija.com

When building a jewellery collection,

qualityiskeybutdokeepitpersonal,

the experts tellAvr il Groom

jewelleryishotrightnow,especiallyclassics

likeartdecoCartierorVanCleef&Arpels,

and increasingly the more sculptural art

moderne designers like Belperron, Boivin

andFouquet,socompetingbidderscanpush

prices.Askhowmuchinterestapiecehas

attracted, but on the day it’s unpredictable so

it’simportanttoworkoutwhatyoucanaford.”

Ifauctionsseemtoouncertain,buildarelationship

with an expert retailer who can advise you, look out for

likelypiecesandbesensitivetoyourdevelopingtastes.

“Researchjewellersyouaredrawnto,”saysGuyBurton,

director of vintage jewellers Hancocks. “Learn about

intrinsicvalueandwhyabeautifullymade,unsigned

1920spiecemaybehalfthepriceoftheequivalent

fromabigname.”

Good1920spiecesareasafe,long-termchoice,he

says,“butweseeagrowinginterestinbold,gold,mid-

centurywork–AndrewGrimaisthehotnamebutothers

suchasIliasLalaounisorGeorgesL’Enfantarecatching

theeye,andtheirstyleandqualityhavelastingvalue.”

Buying contemporary jewellery has parallels with

fashion, says Maria Doulton, co-founder of The Jewellery

Editor website. “Start with something everyday, like

abold,goldItalianpieceperhapswithcolouredstones

fromMarcoBicego,PomellatoorNanis.Thenthink

abouttheclothesyouenjoyandfindjewellerydesigners

whomirrorthem–ifyoulikethegraphiclookofIssey

Miyake,jewelleryfromVherniermightappeal;

orifthefemininevibeofChloégrabsyou,so

might Chaumet’s diamond flowers.”

Young designers work to commission as

well as produce collections, and can make

you a truly personal piece. Doulton suggests

Lydia Courteille’s bold imagination and

wild colours, Fernando Jorge’s impeccably

fluid pieces, Hannah Martin’s spiky

subversiveness and Jessica McCormack’s

lusciousyetedgydiamonds.Itis,she

explains, a very personal choice.

BOAT LIFE

Far left:

Chaumet

earrings.

Below:

Vhernier

bracelet

Chi Chi necklace,

£55,000,

Ruby and diamond clip brooches by Cartier. jessicamccormack.com

Right: a Van Cleef

& Arpels sapphire

and diamond ring

No stone

unturned

Nudo ring,

£1,740,

pomellato.

com

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