the lobster pots I had waymarked, and put out to sea.
Passing the ships at anchor in fog near the Manacles,
we settled into our crossing, motorsailing all but one
of the 14 hours.
I had spent many restless nights anticipating the
two notorious tidal races, the Chenal du Four and the
Raz de Sein. Those magnificent lighthouses framed
by breaking waves loomed large and terrifying. As it
happened, the weather was perfect for both, although
the disturbed flow, even on a calm day, looked
menacing. Between the two races lies Camaret-sur-
Mer, a real jewel of Brittany, and we stayed a couple
of days to explore this picturesque artisan town.
Once round the Raz de Sein, the coast runs north-
west, south-east. The sailing with the moderate
south-westerlies was exhilarating, accompanied by
dolphins on the bow and a majestic Atlantic swell.
We had arrived in southern Brittany. We stopped
off at Sainte-Evette, Sainte-Marine in Benodet, Port-
Louis and La Trinité-sur-Mer. Each destination was
a delight, with helpful marina staff, exquisite seafood
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