ABOVE Puffins
bask in the
breeze on the
Shiant Islands,
which provide a
fair-weather
anchorage in
settled conditionsNational^ Geographic^ Image^ Collection^ /Alamy^ StockPhotoMonitor wind and sea
state forecasts very
carefully as conditions can
change rapidly. Cape Wrath
is exposed to W and N and in
strong NW through NE winds
dangerous seas can build quickly.DEPARTURE
Westwards from Stromness: Leave
30 minutes before the end of the
ebb to avoid overfalls in the Sound
of Hoy. The entrance to Eilean nan
Ron anchorage in Kyle of Tongue is
very narrow but straightforward by
day. At night Loch Eriboll
anchorages are preferable.
Rounding Cape Wrath (Fl (4) 30s,
122m, foghorn), keep 3-5 miles
offshore. In very settled conditions
you can pass close inshore, but
beware Duslic Rock (dries 3.4m),
7 cables NE of the lighthouse. The
W-going stream off Cape Wrath
begins at +0230 Ullapool.ARRIVAL
S of Cape Wrath there are many
anchorages and two harbours: The
Bodha Ceann Na Seil shoal in Loch
Inchard is marked with a lit NCB
and the entrance is well lit.
Continuing SW down the coast,
strong wind against tide can causebad seas off Point of
Stoer, the headland N of
Loch Inver. Entering Loch
Inver from N, take care to
avoid the drying Bo Caolas
rocks NE of Soyea I. Glas Leac rock
marks the final approach to Loch
Inver and has a sector light. Loch
Ewe offers a number of anchorages
with shelter from different
directions. East Loch Tarbert may
be approached to N of Scalpay
Island if air draft is less than 20m,
this being the clearance under the
bridge from North Harris. Larger
yachts must route S of Scalpay.
At East Loch Tarbert either use
the pontoon or anchor WSW of
ferry pier or in North Harbour
on Scalpay.PUBLICATIONS
Clyde Cruising Club Sailing
Directions – Ardnamurchan to
Cape Wrath, 2nd edition
(Imray, £32.50).
Clyde Cruising Club
Sailing Directions – Orkney and
Shetland Islands, (Imray,
£35). The Yachtsman’s Pilot:
Skye and Northwest Scotland
by Martin Lawrence, 3rd edition
(Imray, £27.50)
Imray Charts C67, C68RITES OF PASSAGEPA SSAGE
PLANNER
Stromness to
Ta r b e r tcommunications confusion led to the ocean depths
becoming host to the critical part. So, our destination
was Loch Inver, where gas could be found in a fi shing
harbour with a dramatic backdrop of the sugar loaf
mountain Suilven. On arrival, we decided against a
climb of Suilven and instead opted for the easier
reward of sipping its inspirational ale as our reward
for having bagged our cape.
One of the joys of the west coast is changeable
weather. It can be blowing a hooley with sheeting rain
one day then be gentle breezes and sunshine the next.
So it was, and the following day we enjoyed a lovely
sail south in a NNW Force 4 to Loch Ewe, famous as
an assembly point for the Second World War Arctic
convoys. Loch Ewe also boasts a beautiful anchorage
adjacent to the gardens of Inverewe House. Although
it’s 7 miles to the head of the loch it’s worthwhile,
particularly if your mate is a keen gardener!
From gardening to high fashion; our fi nal
destination was East Loch Tarbert on Harris to buy
tweed. The distinguishing feature of Harris Tweed
is that, without even a nod towards improving
productivity, it must be made in the weaver’s
private home using a traditional loom. This makes it
rare. Indeed, this rarity leaves all other tweeds in
the shade. Aside from this it is an excellent
candidate for standing a watch in a gale. So, with
this in mind, we beat out of Loch Ewe and then
enjoyed a lovely reach to the Shiant Islands, where
we paused to watch puffi ns before continuing
on to the stunning scenery of Tarbert.
We’d completed a challenging rounding of Cape
Wrath and that in itself felt something of an
achievement. But we had also experienced the culture
and warmth of Orkney, felt the rhythm of the ocean,
seen the changing faces of the Atlantic weather
against towering coastal backdrops, and witnessed
sunsets to make Turner rise again. Now the Western
Isles lay at our doorstep. Life doesn’t get much better.