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FOOD & RECIPES: GONE FISHIN’
We humans are on the horns of a dilemma—we
have to eat, but what can we eat that doesn’t damage
ourselves or the environment? We’re bombarded
daily with conflicting messages about what to eat and
what not to eat. Yesterday, butter was a killer; today,
it’s keeping us young and our skin dewy. The latest
study tells us how good fish is for us, then a headline
screams we’re emptying the oceans. Grocery stores
have become minefields—palm oil, GMOs, high-
fructose corn syrup, inhumane meat and fish. Fish is
one of the most daunting food items to buy right, right
now. Information is always changing: Farmed or wild
caught? This tuna, but not that tuna. Shrimp from
here, but not from there. It’s getting so we need a
degree in marine biology to put a healthy and
harmless meal on the table.
We gingerly approach the fish counter, shocking
videos of factory trawlers looping away in our heads,
sweaty hands clutching our dog-eared and (since the
latest findings) probably outdated Seafood Watch or
Ocean Wise shopper’s guide. You’ve got questions, but
the kid behind the counter hasn’t got any answers. So,
here’s what we suggest: get to know your fish monger;
shop small and local when possible—cultivated oysters,
mussels and clams, inland farmed freshwater fish and
lake fish; and whenever possible, eat more jellyfish
(seriously, they’re clogging up the oceans!). Stick to the
most reliable and up-to-date sources of information,
such as the aforementioned Ocean Wise and Seafood
Watch, but also the David Suzuki Foundation.
Wait, back up. Jellyfish? What? If you can, visit an
authentic Chinese restaurant and order the jellyfish.
If you like seafood and noodles, you will love this stuff.
Unfortunately, most of us will not find jellyfish at our
local grocery store, so here are a few recipes for delicious,
easy-to-shop-for and, at the time of writing, still
sustainable fish dishes.TROUT AND QUINOA BURGERS
WITH MINT AND PEAS WITH A
SPICY TAHINI MAYO
Makes 4 burgers and about
3/4 cup Spicy Tahini Mayo
The light, bright green flavours
of mint and summer-fresh peas
are a perfect foil for the rich,
fatty depth of trout. Any sort
of trout will do and can even be
switched out for char or wild
salmon, but for this recipe we
used farmed trout. A versatile
recipe, the trout mixture can
be rolled into one-bite hors
d’oeuvres, full-sized burgers,
or even pressed into a loaf pan
for a new take on meatloaf.
1 cup cooked and cooled quinoa
1 lb farmed trout fillets, skin off
(about 1 1/2 cups chopped)
3 green onions, coarsely
chopped; white and tender
green parts, roots trimmed
and discarded
2 free-run eggs
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh
mint leaves
1/2 tsp sumac powder
1/4 tsp sea salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1/3 cup fresh or frozen young
or “petit pois” peas; if using
frozen peas, do not thaw
About 2 tbsp or more oil for
frying
4 buns or small pita breads1/2 English cucumber, very
thinly sliced
1/2 large or 1 small red onion,
very thinly sliced (optional
garnish)SPICY TAHINI MAYO
1/4 cup good-quality free-run
egg mayonnaise
1/4 cup tahini (sesame paste)
2 to 3 tbsp Asian chili garlic
sauce or other favourite hot
chili sauce
2 tbsp freshly squeezed
lemon juice
Rinse trout in ice-cold water and
pat dry on clean kitchen towel.
Cut into large chunks and add
to bowl of food processor. Pulse
until fish is a coarsely and finely