2019-09-01 delicious

LEF

TOVER

Radish

FUTURE

PROOF

ALBARIÑOIS Awhite

varietalthat’sindigenous

totheIberianPeninsula,an

areathatincludesGaliciain

Spain,andtheneighbouring

regionofMinho,hometo

Portugal’sfresh‘vinhoverde’greenwines.

TimandLisaMarganfromMarganWines

in NSW’sHunterValleyareontotheirthird

albariñocrop.It wasafterwalkingthe

CaminodeSantiagothroughGalicia’s

sun-drenchedlandscape,whererowsof

albariñoareplantedin thesaltyembrace

ofAtlanticwinds,thattheydecidedit could

bea goodgrapetogrowbackhomewith

theHunter’ssimilarmaritimeclimateofhot,

sunnydaysandcoolingeveningbreezes.

“Anythingthatgrowsin a warm-to-hot

climatein Europecanworkhere,”saysLisa,

whosayswe’llseemoreSpanishmonastrell

andtempranillo,andmourvedrefrom

France’sRhoneValleygrownhereasthey

areresistanttodroughtconditions.

Oncea winemakerhasthegrapesthat

cancopewithourdrier,hotterclimate,

“it’snotalldoomandgloom,”saysLisa.

A hat-trickofdrygrowingseasonshas

meantlessdiseaseandmouldonthevines,

anda higherqualitydropin yourglass.

Marganis alsoparticipatingin a Wine

Australiatrialofslip,slop,slapforgrapes.

Thenaturalsunscreenis madefromkaolin

clay,sprayedoverthevineslikea dusting

oficingsugartopreventberrysunburnthat

canhappenaftera seriesofdays over 35ºC

ora singledayover40ºC.

Thisis happeningacrossAustralia.James

RobsonofRossHillWinesin Orange,a

cool-climategrowingregion,is planting

a newchardonnayvineyardatanaltitudeof

1020mtodealwithhottertemps.“Wecan

growgrapesathigheraltitudes,sowecan

continuetogrowthesameones.Butif

you’rein a flatviticulturearea,youhave

to look at new varieties,” he says.

delicious.com.au/food-files

Formoretipsonmaking the

most of ingredients.

SE

EVER

food,a eof

year,radis ervedwith

buttermakea perfectpair.

Well,in mycaseeverythingservedwith

butteris perfect,butI loveeating

radishesrawfortheirsweetand peppery

flavourandcrisptexture.

Radisheswithbutterandsaltarea

Frenchstaple– eachingredientoffersthe

perfectbalancetotheotherin termsof

flavourandtexture.Carriageworks

Farmers’Marketin Sydneyhasa wide

varietyofradishes,butEuropean

varieties,likeCherryBelleand French

Breakfast,aremygoto.

Fora classicpairing,simplytakeeach

cleanedradish– I liketoleavethestem

andleafintact– andadda generous

dollopofunsaltedbutteranda sprinkleof

yourfavouritesalt(I loveOlsson’s)and

enjoy.Whenit comestothebutter,it’sgot

tobePepeSayaculturedunsaltedbutter

whichhassournotesfrombeingbatch-

churnedfromcremefraiche.Cultured

butteris bestwithradishesbecauseofthe

extra flavour it brings to the pairing.

PresentingAustralia’snewwhite

wine,broughttoyoubyclimate

change, saysShannon Harley.

Pep simplebutperfectly

tas nsbountyofradishes.

ILLUSTRATION

ALICE CLEARY

STOREANDSELECT

Selectradishesthatarefirm,withtops

thatlookniceandfresh(youcaneat

thetops),andaren’ttoosmallortoo

bigasthiswillimpacttheflavour–

around5cmdiameteris good.Store

in a ziplockbagin thecrisper for

longer-lastingfreshness.

GOESWITH

Butter,smokedtrout,bacon,cheese,

creme fraiche, dill, vinegar, raw tuna.

Searchdelicious.com.aufor ‘sesame butter

radishes with lemon’

INSIDER.

@pepesaya @misspamplemousse

Follow Pepe Saya Follow Shannon