40 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
Candle Stand
from the back edge of the top
mounting block.
The tenons have to be fl ush with
the top of the block and back edge.
Set a marking gauge to^1 / 2 " and gauge
all the way around both ends of the
block. Using the same gauge setting,
gauge from the top and back edges to
make a square where the tenon will
be located. From the front, saw down
the gauge lines on both the edges
stopping^1 / 2 " from the rear edge.
Now you can saw the other two lines
leaving a^1 / 2 "- square tenon.
The mounting block attaches to
the round tenon on the top of post.
After fi nding the center, bore a 1"
hole to accept the tenon.
21 Pare the tenon down to a circle.
Bore a^1 / 2 " auger hole in a scrap to
test the tenon as you get close to
size. Plane the top back corner of the
mounting block to the radius of the
tenons after the tenons are shaped.
22 The mounting block has a mor-
tise cut into its front edge for
the locking toggle to engage.
23 The pivot holes are bored^1 / 2 "
deep, right on the top edge of the
batten. Be sure to bore as close as
possible to the edge because if the
auger breaks out the side a bit that’s
no problem.21
23
22
The^1 / 4 " wide mortise is 1^1 / 2 " long
and about^1 / 2 " deep centered on the
thickness of the block.
The top-mounting block attaches
to two battens that are screwed to
the underside of the top. The battens
also serve double duty by keeping
the top fl at and preventing warping.
The battens on the original table
extend all the way to the edge of the
underside of the top. For this table I
shortened them so they stop about
1 " shy of the edge of the top, thus
making them less visible.
The battens have a taper on either
end; these are quick to do and light-
en the look of the parts a bit. It’s
best to lay the battens out as a pair.First, fi nd and mark the center, then
measure either side of the center
23 / 4 " and square the lines across.
Next, measure or gauge from the top
of the battens down^3 / 4 " on either
end. Use a jack plane to remove the
majority of the waste and fi nish with
the jointer.
The ends of the battens are round-
ed to match the curvature of the top,
and angled back a bit too. Rough out
the ends with a chisel and fi nish the
shaping with a rasp.
The pivot holes are bored with a(^1) / 2 " auger 2 (^1) / 2 " from the centerline
you made earlier. If the pivot hole
is away from the edge the top will
be set fl at on the mounting block