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December 2019 | REDONLINE.CO.UKThe onsen at YTL
Hotels Green Leaf
Niseko Village – a
mineral-rich hot spring
pool that soothes
ski-weary muscles.From above:
a delicious ramen at
the Green Leaf Niseko
Village; the elegant
bedroom of a Kasara
Niseko Village
Townhouse; skiing
on the fine powder
in the shadow of
Mount Yōtei. Left: The
s l o p es a t N is e ko a r e
known for their
powdery snowSKI SLOPES IN NISEKO, JAPAN
A^
s far as bucket-list
destinations for snow
enthusiasts go, Japan is up
there with the best of them.
But at first, we find this hard
to fathom because where we’re headed is only
300m above sea level, whereas the average
base altitude of Alpine resorts is about 1,200m.
Refreshed from a night’s sleep in our
swanky townhouse (more on this later), we
are basking in a ‘bluebird sky’ morning when
we overhear a complaint about the weather.
But surely this is the stuff of dreams?
Apparently not. Skiing in Niseko is about the
powder. In fact, it’s globally recognised for
its heavy snowfall and ‘Champagne powder’.
Mount Yotei dominates the Niseko skyline,
and it’s thanks to the influence this volcanic
beauty wields over the weather patterns that
snow falls at all. This is not the unpredictable
powder of the Alps; this fresh snow is
consistent and dry. During peak season
(January to mid-February), you can expect
daily top-ups of between 10cm and 40cm.
It’s called the White Season for a reason!
These duvets of snow are unfathomably
deep, so you had better pack the low-light
goggles and be properly suited and booted.
To the uninitiated, the severity of the snowfall
is eerie, yet its dominating whiteness soon
becomes calming. If my first few runs
teach me anything, it’s that gliding on
this powder, however blissful it may feel,
exaggerates my mistakes. So, if you are ever
going to improve, this is the place to do so- especially as you can practise short, sharp
turns, skiing between the mystical shirakaba
(white birch) forests beside the pistes.
Four resorts (Annupuri, Niseko Village,
Grand Hirafu and Hanazono) interlink in
Niseko to offer plenty of skiable terrain,
including a lot of backcountry and off-piste
access for adrenaline junkies. But these
are not the long, thigh-burning runs I’m
used to: they are fast, quick loops. Though
admittedly, a more modern lift system would
make these loops faster (all in the pipeline).
The après-ski in Niseko is refined, and
relaxing in the onsen at YTL Hotels Green
Leaf Niseko Village is a must: a mineral-rich
rock pool drawn from a natural spring, which
soothes aching limbs. The dining options are
rich and colourful and, as Hokkaido island is
famed for its fish and seafood, expect to see
sea urchin, grilled tsubodai (amazing), king
crab and snow crab aplenty, along with the
more daring shirako, or cod sperm sacs to the
uninitiated. My favourite is shabu-shabu, which
gets its name from the swishing of thin slices
of beef in the hotpot (nabe). For drinks, Bar
Gyu+ (aka The Fridge Door) in Hirafu is a joy,
thanks to its whisky and yuzu martinis. Oh,
and a trip to nearby Milk Kobo is imperative.
It’s full of sweet cheese tarts, pastries, ice
creams and choux buns with chilled custard.
Back to my townhouse. While Niseko may
not have the aura of ancient Japan (it feels a
little purpose-built), residing in a YTL Hotels
exclusive Kasara Niseko Village Townhouse
sees me enveloped by refined luxury. It
delivers Japanese architectural charm with
contemporary elegance. I may have only used
the kitchen to make a cup of tea, but you can
pay for a private chef to do it justice; though
do try the inclusive breakfast at the Green
Leaf hotel and marvel at its array of foods.
My advice would be to add Niseko to
your bucket list of destinations and tick
it off before it becomes too popular. This
is truly a resort where those seeking to
carve the corduroy-groomed slopes and
those in search of autographing off-piste
powder can unite in winter-sport bliss.
MEIKE BECKTRIP NOTES Seven nights in a three-bedroom townhouse (room only) at Kasara Niseko
Village Townhouses, including flights and private transfers, costs from £2,625pp,
based on six people sharing. Visit skisafari.com