Jewelry Project HAWAIIAN LEI
FORM THE PETALS USING
THE COPPER SHEET
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The entire petal component
is approximately twice the
width of the larger round, so with
a pencil trace the round in the
center of the copper.
Make another guide circle to
indicate the outer edge and divide
the circle at 8 even intervals with
hatch marks indicating where the
leaves should be drawn.
Hand draw the petals, making
every other petal slightly taller
than the others.
17-18
To texture the copper
for the petals, use the
same technique we used for the
pointed side leaves earlier. Go over
the vein with a small ball stylus,
sliding the tool down the center
guideline of the leaf. Flip the cop-
per over and draw a line on either
side of the vein, following the
contour of the leaf to a point for
an accordion eff ect. Remember,
always return to the opposite side
to crisp up lines as needed.
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Press a sheet of clay 2 or 3
cards thick into the mold and
lay over a prop with a concave cen-
ter and broad soft edges. Let these
petals dry, then smooth and refi ne.
Attach the large round to the petals
by wetting contact areas, using
lump clay, and gently pressing them
together. Make sure the round open-
ing is level with the petals.
SET THE GEM
20
Using the smaller hollow bud,
drill a hole in the top, and
open it up approximately 1⁄16" smaller
than the gem.
With a pencil, mark the top with
5 evenly spaced hatch marks.
21
With the smallest end of a
micro round fi le, gradually fi le
at each of the hatch marks to create
a straight alley. When you are about
1⁄16" in, start using the wider end of
the fi le until you’ve made a circle
just after the straighter portion. The
result should be a stylized fl ower,
with all sections the same size and
shape.
Attach the small bud to the larger
center cup by wetting contact areas,
adding lump clay, and pressing
gently. It is important that the top of
the bud sits level and is centered as
before.
Test that the gem sits fl ush in the
center of the fi ve points without fall-
ing in. If you made your initial hole too
big, add dots of thick slip on the ends
of the points until the gem won’t fall
through, then let dry thoroughly.
Rehydrate just the points for 3 to 5
minutes until the clay has softened,
and set the gem. Make sure it is level
by gently pressing it down with a
shaper tip and then switching to a
clear plastic snake roller.
Roll 5 tiny balls and let them dry
completely. Rehydrate just the
bottoms of the balls by placing them
into a shallow puddle of water. Also,
hydrate the “prongs” just beyond the
edge of the gem.
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76 LAPIDARY JOURNAL JEWELRY ARTIST