9

At Fratelli Paradiso in Sydney, the risotto alla Milanese

is topped with a paper-thinsafron wafer. But when

Fratelli’s co-owner Giovanni Paradiso visits Milan, he

heads to Rovello 18 for a more classic rendition.

W

here the south of Italy is known for its

pasta, in the north, it’s all about the rice.

And risotto, when prepared alla

Milanese, is about as simple and

satisfying as it gets. Simmered slowly with a combination

of chicken or vegetable broth, white wine and saffron,

and finished with butter, parmesan and the optional

addition of bone marrow, the golden rice is up there

with northern Italy’s most celebrated dishes (Piedmont

and Lombardy are Italy’s main rice-growing regions,

after all). Some say risotto alla Milanese is a descendant

of Spain’s paella, brought to northern Italy in

1535 with the Spanish rule. Others note that saffron

flowers were being cultivated and traded in the late

Middle Ages in northern Italy, and that in medieval

Sicily, saffron pilaf was a popular dish among the

Arabs and Venetian Jews. While the origins of the

dish are unclear, one thing is certain: right now,

this creamy dish is perfect winter feasting.

This culinary golden child is dialled up with

another northern Italian specialty, osso buco.

Risotto alla Milanese

Find

one

RICE

While plenty of cooks

argue arborio rice has

the right consistency

when cookedor toasted,

Italian author and cooking

teacherMarcella Hazan

proposed carnaroli is

best for a creamier result.

Just don’t wash the rice.

ACCOMPANIMENTS

The rice is rich, so often it’s

served as a standalone dish,

but the classic accompaniment

is osso buco, cooked “alla

Milanese”. Traditionally, the

cut is from the hind shin of

a milk-fed calf, and should be

cut 5cm thick. It’s then braised

slowly with vegetables until

the meat is spoon-tender,

and the bone marrow is

gelatinous. The only thing

left to add to complete the

dish is gremolata – a mixture

of chopped parsley, garlic

and lemon zest – for a lift

of flavour and final flourish.

SAFFRON

Brick-red threads ofsafron are

behind the yellow “gold” colour.

The moment when the safron

is added, however, is open to

interpretation. Elizabeth David

inItalian Food, preferred to

pound the safron to a powder,

steep it in a cup of hot broth for

five minutes, then add it at the

very end of cooking. Others

add the safron with the stock

at the beginning.

Northern Italy

66 GOURMET TRAVELLER

WORDS MAGGIE SCARDIFIELD. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. FOOD PREPARATION MAX ADEY

ANATOMY OF A DISH