355
industrial uses
amblygonite and lithium 117
baryte 120
copper pipes 48
garnet 259
platinum 44
rutile and titanium 94
scheelite and tungsten 126
silver 42
Ingrid of Denmark, Queen 74
iolite 23, 27, 29, 222
Iranian Crown Jewels, Daria-i-Noor diamond 53
irradiation 31J
jade 115, 212–13
Chinese birdcage 214–15
Indian brooch (Cartier) 93
jadeite 22, 142, 212, 213, 267
jasper 61, 148
Egyptian gold pectoral 147
and sugilite herons carving 221
Wedjat amulet, ancient Egypt 179
Jean Pierre, Roger 307
Jensen, Georg 42, 43, 149
jet 147, 306–07
Jones, Jennifer 302K
Kennedy, Jackie 302
Kiani Crown 182–83
Kimberley diamond mines 53
Klimt, Gustav, Woman in Gold 38
Koh-i-noor diamond 58–59, 188, 235
kornerupine 252
kunzite 27, 209
Kutchinsky 315
kyanite 280L
La Dorada beryl 241
La Peregrina pearl 296–97
labradorite 169
Lalique, René 96, 218
lapis lazuli 106, 115, 119, 174–77, 180, 181
ancient Egyptian pectorals 32–33, 147
bull’s head, ancient Egypt 179
Cartier Egyptian faience brooch 61
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet 81
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague moonstone ring 165
scarab pectoral 178
Van Cleef & Arpels chalcedony pendant 149
larimar 217
lazulite 119
lazurite 22
limestone 324
lithium 117, 208
Louis Vuitton 161
Lucapa diamond 332
Ludwig II of Bavaria, pocket watch 194–95
lustre 23, 142–43M
McLean, Evalyn Walsh 63
Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, Patiala necklace 90–91
malachite 19, 48, 106, 107, 130–31
Malachite Hall, Winter Palace, St Petersburg 111
parure, Queen Desideria of Sweden 108–09
Malinowski, Arno 43
marble 328
David (Michelangelo) 330–31
“marcasite” jewellery 66
Marie Antoinette 46–47, 63
Marie-Louise’s diadem 112–13
marquise cut 29
Mars, and hematite 86
Mary of Denmark, Crown Princess 75
Mary I, Queen 296–97
Mask of Agamemnon 288–89
massive crystal 19
Mauboussin 218
Maximillian Emerald 240
Medici crown jewels 157
meerschaum (sepiolite) 193
Merriweather Post, Marjorie 47, 113, 285
Mesolithic shell necklace 32
meteorites 202, 322
Mexico
Olmec jade carving 212
Toltec mother-of-pearl coyote 304–05
Michelangelo, David 330–31
microcline 171
mineral classification 14–15
mineralogy, and Theophrastus 196
Miseroni workshop 175
mixed cut 29
moldavite 322
moonstone 164–65, 167, 170, 286
Arts and Crafts crescent brooch (Nossiter) 85
and vesuvianite necklace and earrings 250
morganite 27, 238, 240
mother-of-pearl 143, 166–67, 294, 299
coral hummingbird brooch (Kutchinsky) 315
coyote 304–05
snuffbox 151
Topkapi emerald dagger 234–35
Mucha, Alphonse, shop interior (Fouquet) 248–49
Munsteiner, Bernd, Dom Pedro aquamarine 242–43
Munsteiner, Tom 244N
nacre see mother-of-pearl; pearl
Nadir Shah 235
Naga bracelet 33
naming of minerals, gemstones 204, 222
Naper, Ella 165
Napoleon 41, 109
diamond necklace (Nitot et fils) 284–85
Native American eagle 307
Nautilus shell cup 300–301
Navajo turquoise bracelet 111
Navette ruby and diamond ring 77
necklaces
agate 153
amber 311
aquatic amber (Vausch) 311
Baroda Necklace 293necklaces cont.
baroque pearl (Van Cleef & Arpels) 294
Bismarck sapphire 70
black pearl (YOKO) 295
blue tassel 240
Cartier 133, 161, 212–13, 229, 240, 295
Conchita sapphire butterfly 73
Danish ruby parure 74–75
diamond (Nitot et fils) 284–85
fluorite bead 97
jet 307
kunzite and pearl (Picasso) 209
larimar 217
meerschaum beads 193
multi-gem 240
peridot bead 255
platinum (De Vroomen) 45
prehnite 198
pyrite 66
rhodochrosite (Duquette) 100
Scythian pectoral 38
topaz 273
tourmaline 227
tsavorite garnet 262
turquoise and gold 111
“Tutti Frutti” 212–13
vesuvianite 250
necklaces, pendants
Art Nouveau turquoise 111
Arts and Crafts (Gaskin) 229
Babylonian gold 32
birds’ nest dioptase 220
bowenite 190
Canning Jewel 292
cat’s eyes chrysoberyl 85
chalcedony (Van Cleef & Arpels) 149
Chinese nephrite deer 32
demantoid garnet apple 263
dioptase brooch/pendant 220
Edwardian peridot 255
garnet stork 259
gold and onyx 155
gold and peridot 255
“Hat box” (Louis Vuitton) 161
howlite 127
jade rose (Nossiter) 213
malachite 107
mother-of-pearl 299
onyx 155
Quatra platinum and diamond key-design (Tiffany) 45
Renaissance eagle 33
rock crystal 139
Spanish caravel 33
Spanish hippocamp 236
spessatite garnet 263
Victorian lapis lazuli 177
white gold, ruby, and diamond dragon 77
Neolithic serpentine carving 190
Nitot et fils, diamond necklace 284–85
Nitot, Francois-Regnault, Marie-Louise’s diadem 112–13
nose ring (nath) 92
Nossiter, Dorrie 85, 213O
obsidian 17, 267, 323
Tutankhamun funerary mask 178
oiling 31olivine see peridot
Olympic Australis opal 332
onyx 114, 154–55, 267
Cartier bracelet 85
Cartier panther brooch 57
Cartier panther ring 37, 161
and howlite carving 127
and howlite pendant 127
milgrain design onyx and silver ring 43
opal 115, 158–61, 166, 267, 287
black picture opal 160
Cartier Dragon Mystérieux onyx watch 155
Cartier bracelet 85
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet 81
Cartier Pushkar ring 245
Halley’s Comet 162–63
Indian bracelet 159
Olympic Australis 332
St George statuette 144–45
Oppenheimer Diamond 54
orthoclase 16, 170
moonstone see moonstone
oxides 15P
paint pigments 86, 106
Pandora 334
panther jewellery see under Cartier 85
Paraiba Star of the Ocean tourmaline 333
parure
malachite, Queen Desideria of Sweden 108–09
Marie-Louise’s diadem 112–13
ruby, Danish 74–75
Patiala necklace 90–91
pattern, texture, and inclusions 206–07
Pauzié, Jérémie, Russian Imperial Crown 82–83
peacock brooch 93, 159, 161
peacock sculptures, shop interior (Fouquet) 249
peanut wood 318
pearl 114, 130, 286, 292–95
amethyst and seed pearl brooch 138
Arts and Crafts pendant (Gaskin) 229
bloodstone watch case 149
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague necklace 240
Cosmic Clam jadeite ring (Raible) 213
Edwardian peridot pendant 255
forehead ornament (tika) 92–93
jade rose pendant necklace (Nossiter) 213
Kiani Crown 182–83
and kunzite necklace (Picasso) 209
La Peregrina 296–97
nose ring (nath) 92
owl brooch 56
Peacock brooch (Fouquet) 159
pendant brooch (Van Cleef & Arpels) 92
Royal Household at Delhi tableau (Dinglinger)
140–41
St George statuette 144–45
shell pitcher 298
Spanish hippocamp pendant 236
stork pendant 259
turban ornaments 92–93
and turquoise Art Nouveau pendant 111
Victorian lapis lazuli pendant 177
see also mother-of-pearl
Pearl of Allah 294
pectolite 217INDEX
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