SATURDAY MAGAZINE 67that its quiet
daytime alleyways
erupted into a
vibrant nightlife
scene in the
evening. We took
advantage of the
mild evening temperatures to enjoy affordable
beer and wine at various outdoor bars down its
packed alleyways, where the music thumped
and strings of lights swayed in the breeze.
The 1755 earthquake didn’t destroy
everything, and Alfama neighbourhood
remains a historic gem. The vintage number 28
tram dropped us off there and we wandered to
the Sé de Lisboa, or Lisbon Cathedral, the city’s
oldest which dates back to 1147 and is now a
pleasing jumble of architectural styles. On the
way from there to our ultimate destination, the
Castelo de São Jorge, we took a break at
Pastelaria Santo Antonio, where bakers craft
pastel de nata tarts in the café window.
Castelo de São Jorge is a
monumental Moorish edifice
that dominates the Lisbon
skyline. Interestingly, it’s
named after England’s own
patron saint as our crusaders
helped free Portugal from the
Moors. Though mostly ruins
now, its nicely preserved
courtyards and winding
ramparts provide a bit of
shade and sweeping
panoramas over Lisbon’s red
rooftops to the river Tagus.
We also ventured over to
the Belem neighbourhood,
a riverside area full of
landmarks. We gazed at the
16th-century Belem Tower
from the outside – it’s an
imposing edifice that stands
guard over the Tagus, with
quirky carved maritime motifs of twisted rope.
It’s quite a contrast to Portugal’s more
ostentatious tribute to its maritime glory years,
the Monument to the Discoveries built in
1960, which looms over the waterfront.
Making our stay in Lisbon that much more
magical was some wonderful seafood.
Standout eateries included Monte Mar, a
traditional, white-linen tablecloth restaurant
on the riverfront, where we downed oysters
and fresh prawns as the sun set.
We dined like royalty at Palacio Chiado,
because it’s literally a restaurant set in a palace.
Its elaborate frescoes and chandeliers
decorating the intimate dining rooms
enhanced our experience, which featured
premium rib-eye and lobster taquitos.
Three days just gave us a tantalising taste of
Lisbon, which boasts the easygoing vibe of a
small town and the glamour you’d expect from
a big city. But there’s plenty more we still need
see and a return visit is definitely on the cards.TRAVEL
BARGAIN BREAKS
SPAINLISBONPORTUGALWords by: Kirsten JonesTake in these capital cities
Reykjavik
WHY: Delve into
Viking history in the
capital of Iceland,
before dipping your
toes into a thermal
swimming pool and
heading out after dark
in the hope of seeing
the Northern Lights.
HOW: easyJet Holidays (020 3499 5232,
easyjet.com/holidays) has three nights at
the four-star Radisson Blu Saga on a
room-only basis from £363 per person,
with flights departing from London Luton
on September 1.Prague
WHY: Ancient
castles, Charles
Bridge and a giant
astronomical clock
are on the hit list in
this Czech city. And
it’s home, they say,
to the best beer
in Europe.
HOW: Jet2CityBreaks (0800 408 0778,
jet2holidays.com) has three nights at the
three-star Prague Centre Plaza on a B&B
basis from £279 per person, based on two
sharing and flying from East Midlands on
August 30.Copenhagen
WHY: Hop on a bike
to see the best of this
Danish city. Cycle
along the bustling
harbour, see Edvard
Eriksen’s bronze Little
Mermaid statue and
visit Tivoli Gardens
amusement park.
HOW: easyJet Holidays (020 3499 5232,
easyjet.com/holidays) is offering three
nights at the four-star Copenhagen Island
Hotel on a room-only basis for £332 per
person, including flights from Manchester
departing on September 1.WAY TO GO For ideas on what to do in
Lisbon, see visitlisboa.com and visitportugal.
com. TAP Air Portugal (0345 601 0932, flytap.
com) flies direct from London City, Heathrow,
Gatwick and Manchester to Lisbon up to 12
times a day, starting at £84 return including
taxes. Order a Lisbon Card (prices from £18)
from expedia.co.uk. Along with flight and
hotel deals, the card provides free admission
to museums and attractions and unlimited
travel on Lisbon city public transport.Pastel
de nataCastelo de
São Jorge