MERCADODEVALLEHERMOSO
intheChamberídistrict
ofuptownMadridlookslike
anordinaryfarmers’market.
Inside,motesofdusttwinkle
inthelightfromhighwindows
asbutchers,fishmongersandfruit
sellerspushtrolleysaround,making
smalltalkastheystocktheirstalls.
Butsidebysidewiththetraditional
standsaretinynewrestaurants,
givingsomeofthecity’smostcreative
chefsanopportunitytoexperiment.
AtTripea,RobertoMartínezForonda
andhisteamarecreatingafusion
ofPeruvianandSpanishcuisines,
whichtheyserveinfrontofapsychedelic
mural.Amonghisuniquedishesarehot
cevichewithmusselsandtiger’smilk
(aPeruviancitrus-basedmarinade–no
actualtigersaremilkedintheprocess).
Robertosaysthemarketistheperfect
locationforhim,offeringconvenient
accesstofreshingredients,aswellasthe
spacetotryoutsomethingnew.“Though
thisrestauranthasPeruatitscore,
italsoreflectsamixofotherinfluences,”
hesays.“ThereisLatinAmerican,
Mexican.Aboveall,Iwanttomake
sureithasareallySpanishflavourtoit.”
Afterworkinginrestaurantsthroughout
thecity,Robertothinkstherecent
culinaryresurgenceisdowntowho’sin
charge.“Thepeopleopeningrestaurants
nowareactualchefs,”hesays.“They
The
New
Places
to Eat
1
3
- Pots and pans^2
at Tripea restaurant
in Mercado
Vallehermoso - Chef Roberto
Martínez Foronda - A hot ceviche
of mussels at Tripea
TRAVEL FOR CITIES MADRID, SPAIN
August 2019 77