Lonely Planet India – August 2019

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MERCADODEVALLEHERMOSO
intheChamberídistrict
ofuptownMadridlookslike
anordinaryfarmers’market.
Inside,motesofdusttwinkle
inthelightfromhighwindows
asbutchers,fishmongersandfruit
sellerspushtrolleysaround,making
smalltalkastheystocktheirstalls.
Butsidebysidewiththetraditional
standsaretinynewrestaurants,
givingsomeofthecity’smostcreative
chefsanopportunitytoexperiment.
AtTripea,RobertoMartínezForonda
andhisteamarecreatingafusion
ofPeruvianandSpanishcuisines,
whichtheyserveinfrontofapsychedelic
mural.Amonghisuniquedishesarehot
cevichewithmusselsandtiger’smilk
(aPeruviancitrus-basedmarinade–no
actualtigersaremilkedintheprocess).
Robertosaysthemarketistheperfect
locationforhim,offeringconvenient
accesstofreshingredients,aswellasthe
spacetotryoutsomethingnew.“Though
thisrestauranthasPeruatitscore,
italsoreflectsamixofotherinfluences,”
hesays.“ThereisLatinAmerican,
Mexican.Aboveall,Iwanttomake
sureithasareallySpanishflavourtoit.”
Afterworkinginrestaurantsthroughout
thecity,Robertothinkstherecent
culinaryresurgenceisdowntowho’sin
charge.“Thepeopleopeningrestaurants
nowareactualchefs,”hesays.“They

The


New


Places


to Eat


1


3


  1. Pots and pans^2
    at Tripea restaurant
    in Mercado
    Vallehermoso

  2. Chef Roberto
    Martínez Foronda

  3. A hot ceviche
    of mussels at Tripea


TRAVEL FOR CITIES MADRID, SPAIN

August 2019 77
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