88 Quinta da Romaneira Douro Sino Da
Romaneira 2016 $20 Black olive, ripe boysenberry
and black cherry flavors show a meaty undertone in this
burly red, with charred herb, mineral and licorice details
lining up on the chewy finish. Drink now through 2023.
1,500 cases made.—G.S.
86 Adega de Vila Real Douro 2016 $10 Fresh
boysenberry and red plum flavors are interwoven with
grilled herb and mineral details, supported by moderate
tannins on the finish. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca,
Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. Drink now. 50,000 cases
made, 12,000 cases imported.—G.S.
PORTUGAL
Port
93 Taylor Fladgate Port
Single Harvest Very Old 1969
$300 This has gained length, cut
and nuance with age, offering a mix
of hazelnut husk, date, singed ses-
ame, buckwheat, bitter cocoa and
black currant paste flavors, all laced
with a streak of green tea. Touriga
Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta
Cão, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barocca.
Drink now. 750 cases made, 200
cases imported.—J.M.
ADRIAN BRIDGE
CEO92 Quinta de la Rosa Tawny Port 30 Year Old
NV $95/500ml Friendly plum and cherry cobbler
notes form the core of this forward and slightly rustic
tawny, with singed alder, licorice root, buckwheat and
hazelnut notes emerging through the finish. Gains nu-
ance, with a green tea hint emerging at the end. The rus-
ticity is pleasant, balanced by ample fruit. Decidedly dry
in feel for the style. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa,
Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz. Drink now. 56 cases
imported.—J.M.
90 Vinhos Messias Port Prime’s 20 Anos NV
$60 A fresh, racy style, with pretty notes of singed al-
mond and hazelnut, dried blood orange and rooibos tea.
Offers good dry cut on the finish. Touriga Nacional,
Touriga Franca, Tinta Barocca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão
and Tinta Amarela. Drink now. 5,500 cases made, 350
cases imported.—J.M.
90 Quinta do Vallado Tawny Port 20 Year Old
NV $80/500ml This takes a slightly flattering ap-
proach, with cinnamon, warmed fruit cake, dried plum
and toasted pecan notes, finishing on the sweeter side.
Drink now. 125 cases made, 35 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Ferreira Late Bottled Port 2014 $20 Rich,
with steeped currant, plum and blackberry flavors that
have a warm compote feel, picking up dark chocolate,
briar and Christmas pudding notes. Shows more heft than
cut, but remains solid enough. Drink now through 2022.
7,400 cases made, 300 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Quinta das Carvalhas Late Bottled Port 2014
$20 Juicy, with dark currant, plum and blackberry pre-
serve flavors, laced with a chocolate bark note. A bit burly
on the finish. Drink now through 2021. 2,000 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Vinhos Messias White Port Prime’s Sweet
NV $12 Almond, honeysuckle, peach and lemon curd
notes mix in this white Port, with a spicy, Muscat-like fin-
ish. Drink now. 4,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—J.M.
86 Vinhos Messias Tawny Port Prime’s NV $12
A direct introduction to tawny, with raisin and dried plum
notes, lined with subtle cinnamon and dried fruitcake ac-
cents. Serve chilled. Drink now. 18,000 cases made, 1,200
cases imported.—J.M.
SPAIN
Ribera del Duero94 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero La Mala
2013 $140 This sleek red offers harmony and finesse.
Rich but supple, with cherry and red plum flavors that
show a touch of sweetness, backed by spice, cedar and
graphite notes. The tannins are well-integrated, the acid-
ity still lively. Drink now through 2028. 70 cases made,
15 cases imported.—T.M.
93 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero 2016
$50 This red delivers bright flavors of cherry, cranberry
and currant, backed by woodsy, floral and vanilla notes
and energized by tangerine acidity. Muscular tannins lurk
beneath the polished texture, showing that this has stuff-
ing as well as polish. Best from 2020 through 2032. 2,300
cases made, 450 cases imported.—T.M.
93 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero
Valdegatiles 2013 $125 Supple yet expressive, this
red shows maturing flavors of cedar, dried cherry, tobacco
and spice, with light but firm tannins and gentle acidity.
Harmonious and graceful, but has backbone. Drink now
through 2028. 150 cases made, 45 cases imported.—T.M.
93 Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero
Vendemia Seleccionada 2016 $46 This red is plush
and generous, featuring a firm backbone and fine balance.
Black cherry and plum flavors mingle with licorice, min-
eral and toasty notes, supported by well-integrated tan-
nins and gentle but lively acidity. Harmonious. Drink now
through 2030. 1,300 cases made, 200 cases imported.—T.M.
93 Bodegas Emilio Moro Tempranillo Ribera del
Duero Malleolus 2016 $48 This dense red is rich yet
focused. Black cherry, plum and boysenberry flavors min-
gle with cocoa, clove and mineral notes, supported by
muscular, well-integrated tannins and balanced by fresh
acidity. Not showy, but harmonious. Drink now through- 8,000 cases made, 1,650 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero Torre
de Golbán Crianza 2016 $16 A thick, polished tex-
ture carries focused flavors of black cherry, plum, dark
chocolate, licorice and graphite in this balanced red. Fea-
tures well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity. Powerful
yet graceful. Drink now through 2030. 5,000 cases made,
800 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Peñalba López Ribera del Duero
Finca Torremilanos Los Cantos 2016 $17 A vel-
vety texture carries bright flavors of cherry, currant and
kirsch in this lively red. Vanilla and candied orange notes
give this an impression of sweetness, while bright acidity
keeps this fresh. Focused and deep. Tempranillo and Mer-
lot. Drink now through 2028. 8,000 cases made, 800 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero Parada
de Atauta 2016 $35 Clove, forest floor and cola notes
give this red a savory character, backed by a core of plum
and currant fruit. Vanilla and floral accents linger, while
firm tannins and bright acidity lend focus. Drink now
through 2030. 4,200 cases made, 800 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bosque de Matasnos Ribera del Duero 2016
$50 This polished red offers plum and blackberry fla-
vors, with notes of espresso, forest floor and mineral. Well-
integrated tannins impart a deceptive gentleness, while
balsamic acidity keeps this lively. Harmonious. Tempra-
nillo, Merlot and Malbec. Drink now through 2028. 4,000
cases made, 300 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Ribera del
Duero Condado de Haza Crianza 2016 $24 Ripe
cherry and red plum flavors mingle with leafy, loamy earth
and vanilla notes in this harmonious red. The dense tex-
ture is supported by well-integrated tannins and citrusy
acidity keeps this lively. Drink now through 2028. 29,000
cases made, 400 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Emilio Moro
Ribera del Duero La Felisa 2017
$46 This red is muscular and an-
gular. Rich, ripe flavors of blackberry,
fig paste, black olive and graphite
mingle over chewy tannins, ener-
gized by racy acidity. Has concentra-
tion, but lacks balance for now. Best
from 2020 through 2030. 1,250 cases
made, 180 cases imported.—T.M.ALBERTO MORO
Owner90 Pago de los Capellanes Ribera del Duero
Crianza 2016 $36 Black cherry, cranberry and black-
berry flavors are bright and expressive in this lively red, ac-
cented by vanilla, tangerine and floral notes. The tannins
are chewy but balanced by tangy acidity. Drink now through- 39,000 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Viñedos y Bodegas García Figuero Ribera
del Duero Viñas Viejas 2016 $68 Currant and cran-
berry flavors and citrusy acidity give this big red a snappy
character, grounded by muscular tannins. Clove, leafy and
smoky notes add interest. A bit blocky, but lively. Best
from 2020 through 2032. 300 cases made, 100 cases
imported.—T.M.
89 Torres Ribera del Duero Celeste Crianza
2016 $19 This plush red offers kirsch, cherry and candy
apple flavors, with accents of vanilla and citrus. Light tan-
nins and crisp acidity keep this focused. Polished. Drink
now through 2026. 1,888 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Ismael Arroyo Ribera del Duero Val
Sotillo Finca Buenavista 2015 $19 Black olive,
loamy earth and tarry notes shadow a core of plum and
licorice. The muscular tannins are grippy, with balsamic
acidity for balance. Best from 2020 through 2035. 3,000
cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero Pruno
2017 $20 Toasty and smoky notes frame black cherry,
currant, licorice and orange peel flavors in this firm red.
The tannins are a bit obtrusive, but lively acidity gives
this balance. Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best
from 2020 through 2030. 50,000 cases made, 5,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
87 Bodegas Protos Ribera del Duero 2017 $20
A plush texture carries lively flavors of cherry, kirsch and
vanilla, supported by well-integrated tannins and light,
citrusy acidity. Candied yet deep. Drink now through - 10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
SPAIN
Rioja / Red93 Cune Rioja Imperial Reserva 2015 $45 This
balanced red shows muscle without losing grace. Black
cherry, leafy, forest floor and toasty notes mingle over
well-integrated tannins in a silky texture, with fresh acid-
ity giving way to a floral, minerally finish. Not showy, but
harmonious. Drink now through 2030. 12,500 cases made,
1,500 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Cune Rioja Pagos de Viña Real 2016 $125
This polished red offers flavors of black olive, espresso and
truffle, framing a core of kirsch and cranberry notes, and
finishing with mineral and spice accents. Exotic, complex
and harmonious, with depth and structure. Drink now
through 2032.—T.M.
92 Cune Rioja Real de Asúa 2016 $125
Currant, black cherry and cranberry flavors are ripe but
vibrant in this plush red. Citrusy acidity keeps this lively,
while well-integrated tannins impart solid structure. Co-
coa, tar and licorice notes linger on the finish. Powerful.
Drink now through 2032. 250 cases made, 75 cases
imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Finca
Ygay Reserva 2015 $29 See Smart Buys, page 83.New Releases: Portugal / Spain98 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019