92 Artadi Spain San Lazaro 2016 $100 This
bold red delivers black fruit flavors of currant and black-
berry, with cocoa and toasty notes. Firm tannins are well-
integrated, and citrusy acidity keeps this lively. In the
modern style, but balanced. Drink now through 2028. 166
cases made, 30 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Artadi Spain Valdegines 2016 $65 Gener-
ous and graceful, this shows black cherry, blackberry, lico-
rice, cocoa and mineral flavors supported by well-integrated
tannins and fresh acidity. Big but balanced. Drink now
through 2030. 1,900 cases made, 250 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Artadi Spain Viña el Pison 2016 $330 This
big red features a plush texture and a firm backbone. Black-
berry and currant flavors mingle with loamy earth and
mineral notes, giving way to an espresso-scented finish.
Concentrated, in the modern style. Best from 2020
through 2035. 550 cases made, 80 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas y Viñedos Artazu Garnacha Navarra
Santa Cruz 2016 $50 Mineral, licorice and spice notes
accent a rich core of black cherry and berry in this solid
red. Well-integrated tannins and firm acidity buttress the
broad texture. Not showy, but harmonious. Drink now
through 2026. 600 cases made, 80 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Clunia Viño de la Tierra de Castilla
y León Finca el Rincón de Clunia 2015 $90 Plum
and currant flavors are backed by cocoa, loamy earth, for-
est floor and licorice notes in this bold red. Muscular tan-
nins are balanced by lively acidity. Solid and expressive.
Drink now through 2030. 280 cases made, 75 cases
imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Mauro Viño de la Tierra de Castilla
y León 2016 $52 This lean red shows a firm backbone
under a silky texture, offering bright cherry, berry and leafy
flavors that mingle with loamy earth and cocoa notes.
Focused, harmonious and elegant. Tempranillo and Syrah.
Drink now through 2026. 25,000 cases made, 550 cases
imported.—T.M.
91 Artadi Spain La Poza de Ballesteros 2016
$120 Cocoa and loamy earth notes frame ripe black-
berry and currant flavors in this plush, heady red. Well-
integrated tannins keep this focused, with just enough
acidity to stay lively. Drink now through 2030. 230 cases
made, 25 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodega Burdigala Toro Campo Elíseo 2014
$75 Saline and sanguine notes give this dense red a
savory character, framing plum and blackberry flavors, as
licorice, loamy earth and smoky accents chime in. Mus-
cular tannins and balsamic acidity keep this focused. A
bit blunt, but concentrated. Drink now through 2034. 423
cases made, 150 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Etxaniz Txakolina Getariako Txakolina
Rosado Txomin Etxaniz 2018 $22 This rosé shows
a pretty, deep-pink color and delivers bright cherry and
grapefruit flavors, enlivened by rapier acidity and a slight
spritz. Refreshing. Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza.
Drink now. 4,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Mauro Viño de la Tierra de Castilla
y León VS 2015 $98 Plum and blackberry flavors are
ripe and fresh, backed by cocoa, licorice and mineral notes.
Firm, well-integrated tannins and balsamic acidity sup-
port the round texture. A big red, in the modern style.
Drink now through 2030. 3,130 cases made, 150 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas y Viñedos Pintia Toro 2014 $79
Sanguine, espresso and loamy earth flavors give this firm
red an austere character, with a core of currant and lico-
rice notes. Solid tannins and balsamic acidity provide
an ironclad structure. Old-school, balanced and deep.
Drink now through 2034. 14,790 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Peñalba López Ribera del Duero
Rosado Finca Torremilanos Montecastrillo 2018
$11 This rosé shows the color and structure of a light
red, delivering cherry, leafy, ginger and earthy flavors,
backed by firm acidity and light, firm tannins. Old-school
and made for food. Drink now through 2023. 5,500 cases
made, 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Príncipe de Viana Navarra Reserva
2014 $22 A velvety texture carries ripe flavors of kirsch,
blackberry preserves and vanilla in this red. Well-
integrated tannins and orange peel acidity lend focus. A
fruit-centered style, balanced and clean. Drink now
through 2024. 4,390 cases made, 200 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Breca Garnacha Spain 2016 $16
Cherry and cranberry flavors are crisp and tart in this firm
red, backed by vanilla and spice notes that soften the mus-
cular tannins. Drink now through 2028. 20,000 cases
made, 13,000 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Gil Luna Toro Tres Lunas 2016 $20
This polished red shows cherry and red plum flavors, with
notes of licorice, toast and mineral. Well-integrated tan-
nins and fresh acidity impart balance. The finish lingers
with floral and spice details. Drink now through 2026.
1,200 cases made, 180 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Abadia Retuerta Viño de la Tierra de Castilla
y León Selección Especial Sardon de Duero 2016
$32 This fruity red offers black cherry and plum flavors,
backed by licorice and toasty notes. Plump, with light,
firm tannins and balsamic acidity. Drink now through- 40,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Finca Albret Navarra El Balcón Crianza 2015
$25 This solid red offers cherry and berry flavors, with
leafy, licorice and sandalwood notes. Firm tannins and
orange peel acidity give this a slightly rustic character.
Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now
through 2027. 5,000 cases made, 350 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodega Otazu Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-
Tempranillo Navarra Premium Cuvée 2016 $16
Cola, currant and cedar notes mingle in this sturdy red.
Muscular tannins and balsamic acidity support the savory
flavors. A bit rustic, but deep. Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-
lot and Tempranillo. Drink now through 2026. 17,500
cases made, 505 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Bodegas Cepa 21 Ribera del Duero Rosado
Hito 2018 $16 Watermelon, spice and vanilla flavors
give this rosé a round, generous character, with just enough
tangerine acidity to keep this fresh. Drink now. 1,900 cases
made, 150 cases imported.—T.M.87 Dominio de Eguren Viño de la Tierra de
Castilla Rosé Protocolo Made with Organic Grapes
2018 $9 Full-bodied, showing berry, watermelon, tar-
ragon and spice notes, with firm acidity for structure.
Drink now. 10,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Bodegas Príncipe de Viana Navarra Crianza
2015 $18 Cherry, leafy, orange peel and spice flavors
mingle here. Features firm tannins and citrusy acidity.
Angular yet lively. Tempranillo blend. Drink now through- 65,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—T.M.
85 Dominio de Eguren Viño de la Tierra de
Castilla Rosado Protocolo 2018 $8 This dry rosé
is round and polished, featuring light berry and herbal
flavors, with gentle acidity. Tempranillo and Bobal. Drink
now. 20,000 cases made, 7,000 cases imported.—T.M.
SPAIN
Other White & Sparkling92 Mas Igneus Priorat White Renéixer 2017 $20
Rich yet firm, this muscular white offers pear, heather,
lanolin and mineral flavors. More savory than fruity, but
still generous and long. Harmonious and distinctive. Mer-
lot, Garnatxa Blanca and Garnatxa Negra. Drink now
through 2024. 300 cases made, 50 cases imported.—T.M.92 Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc Brut Nature
Vino Espumoso Manuel Raventós Negra 2011 $78
A leesy hint of pastry dough on the nose leads to a finely
meshed palate of toasted almond, dried white cherry and
citrus peel flavors in this sparkler, with a streak of racy
salinity. Firm and focused, offering a lingering finish of
spice, coffee and mineral. Drink now through 2024. 600
cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.91 Josep Maria Raventós i
Blanc Brut Nature Vino Espu-
moso de la Finca 2015 $35 A
harmonious sparkler that layers a
firm spine of acidity with well-
meshed flavors of apricot, toast
point, sliced almond and white rasp-
berry. Hints of saffron and saline
play on the satiny finish. Drink now
through 2025. 11,100 cases made,
480 cases imported.—A.N.PEPE RAVENTÓS
Owner & Winemaker91 Torres Extra Brut Vino Espumoso Esplendor
Vardon Kennett 2013 $17 A firm, citrusy sparkler,
with hints of lime blossom and Meyer lemon peel accent-
ing the yellow plum and toast point flavors. Well-knit,
featuring a fine, lively mousse and a chalky finish. Drink
now through 2014. 290 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Artadi Brut Hondarrabi Zuri Vino Espumoso
Izar-Leku 2015 $35 Fine and chalky in texture, fea-
turing a streak of salinity, layered with Marcona almond,
baked pear, dried white cherry and crystallized honey fla-
vors. Clean-cut finish. Drink now through 2023. Tasted
twice, with consistent notes. 1,500 cases made, 175 cases
imported.—A.N.
90 Artadi Spain White Viñas de Gain 2015 $25
This firm white offers pear, kumquat, chamomile, beeswax
and vanilla flavors, with a silky texture, supported by crisp
acidity. Shows density and balance. Drink now through- 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc Brut Blanc de
Blancs Vino Espumoso 2016 $25 Delicate lime
blossom, minerally spice and graphite aromas unravel
through this elegant Spanish sparkler. Bright and bal-
anced, with flavors of Meyer lemon, grilled nut and white
cherry riding the creamy mousse. Drink now through - 33,750 cases made, 7,313 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Torres Albariño Rias Baixas Pazo das Bruxas
2017 $16 This white is fresh and clean, featuring an
alluring purity that unfolds with peach, tarragon, sea
breeze and mineral notes. Focused and graceful. Drink
now. 25 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas As Laxas Sparkling Albariño Rias
Baixas Sensum Laxas 2017 $45 Delicate notes of
ripe yellow peach, ground anise, honeydew melon and
stone ride the light, lacy mousse of this fresh, aperitif-
style sparkler. Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 250 cases
imported.—A.N.
89 Haciendas Marqués de la Concordia Brut
Cava Selección Especial 2015 $12 Fresh and fo-
cused, offering a lively mix of Gala apple, spring blossom
and white cherry, with hints of blanched almond and
ground cardamom spicing the creamy finish. Macabeo,
Xarel-lo and Parellada. Drink now. 100,000 cases made,
800 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Haciendas Marqués de la Concordia Brut
Nature Cava Reserva de la Familia 2013 $15 A
well-balanced Cava, with a fine mousse and lively black
cherry and blood orange fruit flavors, accented by Mar-
cona almond, rose hip and fleur de sel notes. Chardonnay,
Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada. Drink now through - 20,000 cases made, 650 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Bodegas Naia Rueda Las Brisas 2018 $11
See Best Values, page 84.
New Releases: Spain100 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019