Wine Spectator – September 30, 2019

(avery) #1

92 Château Haut-Blanville
Languedoc Grés de Montpellier
Légendes 2014 $75 An inky,
full-bodied red, saturated with
steeped black cherry, violet and
espresso flavors. A rich note of rasp-
berry reduction fills in midpalate,
giving way to mocha, mineral and
spice details on the finish. Inte-
grated tannins. Drink now through



  1. 400 cases made, 100 cases
    imported.—G.S.


BERNARD & BÉATRICE
NIVOLLET
Owners

91 Domaine de Fabrègues Pays d’Hérault L’As
de Coeur 2016 $80 Inky and concentrated, this full-
bodied red offers dark cherry compote and raspberry reduc-
tion notes, edged with tobacco leaf, espresso and spice
details. Mineral, floral and olive elements linger on the
tannic finish. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now
through 2024. 160 cases made, 56 cases imported.—G.S.


91 Fracture Grenache Côtes Catalanes Shatter
2017 $22 Glazed cherry and raspberry notes are fresh
and bright in this glossy red, with hints of mocha, licorice
and baking spice that impart richness through the miner-
ally finish. Drink now through 2024.—G.S.


91 Château Haut-Blanville Languedoc Grés de
Montpellier Murmures 2014 $75 A generous red,
with supple layers of dried black cherry and raspberry cou-
lis, mixed with violet, tobacco leaf and black olive ac-
cents. Polished tannins support the tea and mineral details
on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 500 cases made,
56 cases imported.—G.S.


90 Château d’Aussières Corbières 2016 $20
Peppery on the nose, featuring fresh blackberry, plum and
dark cherry notes flanked by graphite and spice accents.
Moderate tannins support the hot stone and herb details
on the finish. Drink now. 45,000 cases made, 300 cases
imported.—G.S.


90 Domaine Cazes Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
Le Credo 2014 $70 This concentrated and open-knit
red offers raspberry reduction and cherry tart notes that
are cast with ample spice details. Savory elements of smoky
mineral, grilled herb and tea open up on the structured,
leather-lined finish. Drink now through 2021. 300 cases
made, 50 cases imported.—G.S.


90 Château Haut-Blanville Languedoc Grés de
Montpellier Plénitude 2014 $40 Well-structured,
with dried red berry and cherry notes interwoven with
tobacco leaf, mineral and new leather details. Spice and
olive accents linger on the finish. Integrated tannins.
Drink now through 2022. 500 cases made, 50 cases
imported.—G.S.


90 François Lurton Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
Mas Janeil Sans Soufre 2017 $22 An elegant style,
with fragrant floral notes lining the bright red berry fla-
vors, followed by white pepper, mineral and tea details on
the moderately tannic finish. Grenache, Carignan, Syrah
and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2023. 238 cases
imported.—G.S.


90 Château Ste.-Eulalie Minervois La Livinière
2017 $50 Cherry and dried raspberry notes have a
savory, meaty undertone, with pepper, tea and mineral
details. Nicely structured, showing ample acidity and tan-
nins on the spicy finish. Syrah and Grenache. Drink now
through 2024. 1,000 cases made, 50 cases imported.—G.S.


89 Château Haut-Blanville Languedoc Grés de
Montpellier Élégante 2014 $24 Cherry filling and
raspberry tart notes are well-balanced with baking spice,
floral and tea details in this plump but focused red, with
moderately integrated tannins. Syrah, Grenache Noir,
Mourvèdre and Carignan. Drink now through 2022. 1,200
cases made, 500 cases imported.—G.S.


89 Château Ste.-Eulalie Minervois La Livinière
La Cantilène 2016 $25 Black peppercorn notes ac-
cent the currant and dried raspberry flavors of this supple,
concentrated red, with dried herb and graphite notes
marking the tannic finish. Syrah, Carignan and Grenache.
Drink now through 2022. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases
imported.—G.S.
88 Château d’Anglès Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre
La Clape Classique 2017 $18 Blackberry and currant
flavors are flanked by graphite, wild herb and pepper notes
in this fresh, medium- to full-bodied red. Grippy tannins
show on the lingering finish. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvè-
dre. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Domaine Gayda Pays d’Oc En Passant 2017
$15 Medium-bodied, with fresh raspberry and cherry
fruit, accented by herb, spice and tea details. Floral hints
chime in on the moderately tannic finish. Syrah and Cin-
sault. Drink now through 2021. 2,000 cases made, 700
cases imported.—G.S.

88 Château Haut-Blanville Languedoc White
Élégante 2017 $24 This supple, well-spiced, medium-
bodied white offers apple cobbler and pineapple cake
notes, backed by a fresh acidity that highlights the min-
erally and buttery details on the finish. Grenache Blanc
and Roussanne. Drink now through 2020. 1,000 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—G.S.

88 Château Haut-Blanville Syrah-Grenache Noir
Languedoc Grande Réserve 2017 $18 Ripe black-
berry and plum compote notes are focused and interwo-
ven with spice and licorice notes. Grippy tannins mark
the minerally finish. Syrah and Grenache. Drink now
through 2021. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc 2017 $13 Ripe
raspberry and currant notes are backed by fresh acidity
that highlights the licorice, floral and mineral details.
Moderate, integrated tannins structure the tangy finish.
Drink now through 2022. 35,000 cases made, 2,400 cases
imported.—G.S.
88 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc White 2017 $13
Lanolin and spice notes accent the apple, dried pineapple
and heather flavors of this fresh, medium-bodied white,
with mineral details echoing on the finish. Drink now
through 2020. 6,666 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Domaines Paul Mas Languedoc Rosé Astelia
2018 $22 A nice, focused rosé, with zippy acidity that
supports the tangy white raspberry, clementine and melon
flavors. Mineral and spice notes drive the finish. Gre-
nache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now. 6,000 cases
made.—G.S.
86 Fortant Grenache Pays d’Oc Rosé Coastal
2018 $11 A pretty rosé, featuring easy-drinking white
cherry, peach and melon notes. Offers a lightly spiced fin-
ish, with floral and white pepper details. Drink now.
20,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Jean-Claude Mas Pays d’Oc Gris Mas 2018
$13 Up-front and refreshing notes of white cherry, rasp-
berry and peach mix with herb and spice accents through
the minerally finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—G.S.
86 L’Ostal Cazes Pays d’Oc Rosé 2018 $13
Cherry and white strawberry notes are juicy and fresh in
this plump rosé, with mineral and white pepper accents
marking the finish. Syrah and Grenache. Drink now.
30,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—G.S.
85 Domaine Montrose Chardonnay Côtes de
Thongue 2018 $13 Clean and crisp, with apple and
pear notes that show herb and spice undertones. Drink
now. 8,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
85 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue 2017
$13 Plump, offering red berry and spice notes, with easy
tannins on the herb-tinged finish. Syrah blend. Drink
now. 5,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.

FRANCE
Loire / Red

93 Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie
2015 $66 Aromas of iron and cedar introduce this com-
plex and graceful red, with a silky texture and great har-
mony overall. Flavors of blackberry and tobacco mingle at
the core, while sage and rose notes add to the charm. Very
long and multilayered, this should be long-lived. Drink now
through 2029. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du
Grand Clos 2017 $53 Features beautiful acidity that
imparts freshness and energy, with cherry pit and red cur-
rant fruit notes gliding along. Medium tannins provide
structure and support. The finish is long and expressive.
Best from 2021 through 2029. 170 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Aurélien Revillot Bourgueil Les Aubuis 2014
$29 This offers a bit of an edge, with barnyard and loamy
earth aromas, mixed with cedar and olive hints, but the
palate is more solid. Flavors of blackberry, currant and san-
guine form the core, while mineral and herbal accents
emerge on the finish. Long and mouthwatering. Drink now
through 2026. 117 cases made, 14 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Charles Joguet Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert
2015 $64 Loaded with blackberry and currant flavors
that are underscored by hints of graphite and chalk. Well-
built and harmonious, with mouthwatering acidity run-
ning through, while the tannins lend just enough grip for
support. Lingers on the finish. Drink now through 2026.
400 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Charles Joguet Chinon Les Charmes 2017
$42 Full of energy, with vibrant acidity and slight grip
from the tannins. The core features charming notes of
damson plum, blueberry and violet, with hints of tar. Flo-
ral details emerge on the finish. Best from 2021 through


  1. 600 cases made, 10 cases imported.—A.Z.
    91 Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches
    2017 $30 Harmonious and focused, with a core of
    crushed strawberry, rose hip and raspberry flavors. Very
    pure, showing an alluring mineral hint in the background,
    emerging with spice on the long finish. Best from 2020
    through 2028. 1,500 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.Z.
    90 Patrick Baudouin Anjou Les Coteaux
    d’Ardenay 2015 $30 This has developed beautifully,
    presenting a silky texture and a palate filled with black-
    berry, cedar and iron notes. Tannins are present but well-
    integrated. Shows good range and depth. Drink now
    through 2024. 550 cases made, 45 cases imported.—A.Z.
    90 Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Red Le Cul de
    Beaujeu 2017 $52 Shows fine purity to the flavors of
    dark cherry, mulberry and currant. Silky in texture and
    well-defined, with good extraction and balanced tannins.
    Complex but a bit overworked for now, so better to wait
    a few years. Best from 2021 through 2027. 800 cases made,
    40 cases imported.—A.Z.
    90 Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Red Silex 2017
    $40 Opens with mulled black cherry and blackberry
    flavors. Floral and spice notes emerge midpalate, linked
    by beautiful acidity, while soft tannins offer support. Bram-
    ble details mark the mouthwatering finish. Drink now
    through 2026. 860 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
    90 Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Clos d’Isoré
    2017 $28 Structured and grippy, with a tight profile
    and a core of dark plum, licorice and black pepper flavors,
    offset by prominent chalky minerality. Mouthwatering
    finish. Needs more time in the cellar, but should develop
    nicely. Best from 2022 through 2027. 1,400 cases made,
    125 cases imported.—A.Z.
    89 Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée Terroir 2017
    $23 A taut style, with medium tannins and lively acid-
    ity creating a firm structure that stands behind the black-
    berry, pepper and thyme notes. This will be silky and very
    elegant in a few years. Best from 2021 through 2027. 980
    cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.Z.


New Releases: France

86 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019

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