88 Bedouet Vigneron Muscadet de Sèvre et
Maine Sur Lie Clos des Grands Primos 2018 $18
Silky in texture, with a savory profile, displaying a mix of
thyme and white pepper notes, as well as hints of fleur de
sel. Accents of nectarine mark the vibrant finish. Drink
now. 10,000 cases made, 2,700 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Domaine A. Cailbourdin Pouilly-Fumé Les
Cris 2018 $24 This is fresh, leaning to the herbal side,
with oregano and savory mineral streaks fronting notes of
lively green apple and lime. Drink now. 1,100 cases
imported.—A.Z.
88 Regis Jouan Sancerre 2018 $22 Shows good
intensity from the vibrant acidity, with hints of honey-
suckle framing the core of clementine and thyme flavors.
Moderate length. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—A.Z.
88 Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon White 2018
$23 Light and crisp, with a refreshing profile featuring
a mix of orchard fruit and blossom flavors. The acidity
imparts liveliness, driving this toward a mouthwatering
finish. Drink now through 2023. 2,000 cases made, 240
cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Domaine Baron Sauvignon Blanc Touraine
2018 $16 A smooth-edged version, with kiwifruit and
lemon verbena notes gliding through. Shows a light, sweet
echo of daisy on the finish. Drink now. 6,000 cases made,
1,200 cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Bedouet Vigneron Muscadet de Sèvre et
Maine Sur Lie Le Domaine 2018 $15 Refreshing,
but also almost round, with lemon, fresh peach and sea
salt flavors. Offers moderate length. Drink now. 2,400
cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Domaine des Grandes Perrières Sauvignon
Blanc Coteaux du Giennois Le Silex 2018 $20
Round and soft, with notes of white pepper framing the
core of melon and thyme flavors. Moderate length. Drink
now. 2,200 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z.
85 Paul Buisse Sauvignon Touraine 2018 $13
A soft version, with notes of lemon, quinine and savory
mineral. Drink now. 18,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
FRANCE
Loire / Other
94 Patrick Baudouin Quarts de Chaume Les
Zersilles 2013 $81/500ml Suave, with a beautiful
creamy texture offset by vibrant acidity, letting notes of
fig, honey and flambéed peach unwind on the palate. The
acidity and spice energize this wine, imparting liveliness
and vibrancy. Additional flavors develop steadily through
the finish, giving this length and cut. Drink now through
- 80 cases made, 15 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Patrick Baudouin Coteaux du Layon Les
Bruandières 2015 $56 A seductive dessert wine, with
alluring aromas of white truffle and lemon curd. Opens
with flavors of brown sugar and glazed apricot and notes
of candied orange peel, while hints of mint and raisin
emerge midpalate. Though rich, the acidity cuts through,
imparting incredible balance and range. Drink now
through 2035. 113 cases made, 17 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Eric Hérault Chinon Rosé de Saignée 2018
$18 This shows some complexity, with a beautiful min-
erally texture and flavors of light cherry, white pepper and
rose hip. Savory finish. Try with food. Drink now through
- 200 cases made, 70 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Domaine Pierre Martin Sancerre Rosé 2018
$23 Fresh and fruity, boasting cherry, currant and spice
flavors. Features mouthwatering acidity and a clean fin-
ish. Drink now. 500 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Rosé 2018 $18
Round and balanced, with notes of rose petal and rasp-
berry. Velvety in texture, this rosé shows some weight and
would be good with food. Drink now. 4,500 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—A.Z.87 Dominique Roger Sancerre Rosé Domaine
du Carrou 2018 $23 A crisp rosé, with cherry and
mineral flavors. Shows a soft saffron note midpalate. Bal-
anced. Drink now. 600 cases imported.—A.Z.FRANCE
Provence / Rosé89 M. Chapoutier Côtes de Provence Rosé
Grand Ferrage Mathilde Chapoutier 2018 $25
Lively acidity accentuates the mineral, raspberry and white
cherry flavors of this refreshing rosé, with white pepper and
herb notes gliding into the finish. Grenache, Cinsault and
Syrah. Drink now. 5,800 cases imported.—G.S.
89 Gassier Côtes de Provence Rosé Esprit 2018
$22 Heather, flint and delicate white pepper notes weave
through the creamy white cherry, peach and tangerine
flavors of this elegant rosé. Offers a clean, minerally fin-
ish. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Rolle. Drink now.
54,000 cases made, 25,000 cases imported.—G.S.
87 Berne Selection Côtes de Provence Rosé
Inspiration 2018 $20 Delicate tangerine, melon and
white cherry notes are inviting and fresh in this rosé, with
herb, mineral and spice details adding interest through
the finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 15,000 cases
imported.—G.S.
87 Domaine La Colombe Coteaux Varois en
Provence Rosé 2018 $19 A fragrant rosé, with floral
notes lining the peach and tangerine flavors. Herb and
mineral accents echo on the finish. Drink now. 8,700 cases
made, 4,500 cases imported.—G.S.87 Gueissard Côtes de
Provence Rosé G 2018 $16
Aromatic, with tangerine, orange
blossom and mango notes that are
spicy and fresh. Herb and tangy de-
tails echo on the finish. Syrah and
Cinsault. Drink now. 1,000 cases
made, 700 cases imported.—G.S.PAULINE GIRAUD &
CLÉMENT MINNE
Owners & Winemakers87 Minuty Côtes de Provence Rosé M 2018 $21
Minerally, with heather and dried herb notes underpin-
ning the white cherry and melon flavors of this elegant
rosé. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Drink now. 44,771
cases imported.—G.S.
86 Les Hauts Plateaux Alpes de Haute Provence
Rosé 2018 $13 Mineral and rose petal underpinnings
give depth to this rosé, with juicy cherry and raspberry
notes that linger into the spicy finish. Drink now. 20,000
cases made, 6,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Jas des Vignes Alpes de Haute Provence
Rosé 2018 $12 Fresh, with herb and white pepper un-
dertones, this rosé offers melon pith, white cherry and
watermelon flavors, showing white pepper details on the
finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Muscat. Drink now.
25,000 cases made, 6,000 cases imported.—G.S.FRANCE
Rhône / Châteauneuf-du-Pape98 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Arioso 2015 $233 A stunning display of fruit,
with a seamless and beguiling show of açaí, raspberry, plum
and blackberry puree notes gliding through in lockstep.
Light anise, black tea and incense elements weave around
while the finish is pulled along by a mouthwatering combo
of shiso leaf and iron details, with the fruit easily keeping
pace. Approachable now because of the fruit, but this will
cellar well for some time. Drink now through 2040. 35
cases imported.—J.M.97 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-
Pape 2016 $107 See Collectibles, page 81.
97 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Omnia 2016 $107 See Highly Recommended,
page 81.
96 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cuvée Réservée 2016 $115 A singed chestnut
accent leads off here, followed by a sappy core of steeped
cherry, raspberry and plum fruit, infused liberally with to-
bacco, brick dust and garrigue notes. Reveals a brawny
edge, but there’s ample fruit in the end. Grenache blend.
Best from 2021 through 2040. 5,400 cases made.—J.M.
93 Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles
Vignes 2016 $80 Broad and juicy in feel, featuring
raspberry and blackberry compote notes, laced with anise
and apple wood details. Shows good energy through the
finish, with tobacco and chestnut accents adding range
and texture, while the fruit streams through. A latent tug
of earth at the end keeps this grounded in terroir. Gre-
nache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2020 through- 330 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Sélection Laurence Féraud Châteauneuf-du-
Pape 2016 $70 Alluring, with incense and black tea
notes leading off, while the core of steeped raspberry and
blackberry fruit slowly opens. Warm fruitcake, singed al-
der and sanguine elements lurk in the background, reveal-
ing an echo of brick dust on the finish. Grenache,
Mourvèdre and Syrah. Best from 2021 through 2035. 416
cases made.—J.M.
93 Halos de Jupiter Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Adrastée 2016 $60 This has lovely fruit, featuring
warm cassis, raspberry puree and plum compote notes
mixed with singed sandalwood, anise and lavender ac-
cents. A pleasant chalky minerality courses underneath
on the finish. Best from 2020 through 2032. 1,000 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Lavau Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 $33 Juicy
and ripe, featuring layers of plum, red currant and rasp-
berry pâte de fruit flavors, lined liberally with sage, bay
leaf and tobacco hints. Reveals a flash of brick dust on
the finish, which shows good minerally cut. Very solid,
with a pleasant old-school hint. Grenache, Syrah and
Mourvèdre. Best from 2020 through 2030. 5,000 cases
made, 3,000 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Louis Bernard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017
$45 Fresh and direct, with pure plum and cassis notes
lined with light lavender and violet hints. Shows a touch
of grip but is otherwise accessible now. Grenache and
Syrah. Drink now through 2028. 2,000 cases made, 500
cases imported.—J.M.
91 Louis Bernard Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine La Crau des Papes 2017 $46 Ripe and
focused, with warm boysenberry and plum coulis notes
streaming through, laced with dried anise, tea and laven-
der details. Direct. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now
through 2028. 4,800 cases made, 100 cases imported.—J.M.FRANCE
Rhône / Other93 Alain Jaume Gigondas Terrasses de Mont-
mirail 2016 $33 Lovely black cherry, plum and cur-
rant fruit has melded with subtle chalky minerality, black
tea and singed juniper notes. Fine-grained and long, show-
ing weight and finesse. Should cellar well. Grenache,
Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2020 through 2032. 2,500
cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Lavau Gigondas 2016 $29 Rich and alluring,
with waves of dark plum and warmed raspberry puree glid-
ing through, inlaid with savory, chalky mineral and smol-
dering tobacco notes. Everything meshes nicely through
the lengthy finish. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best
from 2020 through 2028. 5,000 cases made, 3,000 cases
imported.—J.M.New Releases: France88 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019