ELLE.COM/UK September 2O19
Photography: Jason Lloyd - Evans, Gett y Images, Imaxtree, Rex Features.
78
The SHORTCUT
Theeasiestwaytostepinto
a trend?Withyour
accessories,from197Os-
styleshadesto199Oscoin-
embellishedshoes(worn
togethertorecreate
autumn/winter2O19’s
chronologicalmash-up).
ELLEMood Board
The TIP
Pile it on. And don’tbeshy.
Go bold with XLdoor-
knocker brooches,
referencing Versace’s
baroque styles, andbright
colour noddingtothe
198Os via LouisVuitton.
fashion on the runway coincides with the growing popularity of resale
sites such as Vestiaire Collective and Depop. Both allow people to sell
and buy vintage styles to remix with pieces from their own wardrobes.
Today, Depop has more than 1O million users, and even the high-street
heavyweight H&M Group is piloting a reselling scheme, starting with
& Other Stories. ‘We see this as a growing part of the industry, with great
opportunities for consumers – and not least for the environmental impact,’
says Anna Gedda, the group’s Head of Sustainability. Browns is also
among a growing number of retailers adding ‘resale’ to its repertoire,
introducing vintage styles. It now stocks brands One
Vintage and Tiger In The Rain, both of which revive
pre-owned pieces with bright beading and embroidery.
‘Each designer has a unique aesthetic, and they are very
clear about their direction,’ says buying director Ida
Petersson. ‘One Vintage has been embraced by our
Saint Laurent and Chloé customers for its romantic
dresses and jackets, while Tiger In The Rain really
appeals to the risk-taker. Our customers are always on
the lookout for one-of-a-kind items – something that is
becoming increasingly hard [to find] these days, unless
you have the budget for couture.’
How to recreate that look? Do as the designers do: start with a base of
something that’s actually vintage (a 196Os-era cape or 199Os denim),
then pile on the accessories (statement-making scarves, hats, gloves,
eyewear). Petersson regards runways’ everything-but-the-kitchen-sink
styling responsible for a spike in sales of brooches, charms, bag straps
and other ‘accessorisable’ (it’s a word...) add-ons. ‘Non-apparel is now
more than 5O% of our womenswear business,’ she says. ‘Accessories
are the easiest way to update your wardrobe, as they instantly refresh
your outfit.’ Lyst, a platform that analyses the shopping habits of more
than five million shoppers a month across 12,OOO designers and stores,
also reports that footwear and accessories dominate its searches.
And it is statement accessories that ignite most heat among millennial
customers. If you want to know who’s doing them well: ‘I always look
to Prada, Loewe and Chloé,’ Petersson says. ‘As well as a new wave
of designers like Amina Muaddi, Wandler and Staud.’ (The latter three
sweetly priced, starting at £16O.)
Of course, the accessories and time-travelling layers at Bottega
Veneta, Gucci, Givenchy, Paco Rabanne and others don’t just speak
to our desire to shop ‘smart’. They also speak to character. Switching
up your style with a rotation of clashing colours, textures and prints
opens up more ways to express ourselves. ‘It’s about spirit,’ says Waight
Keller.Whicheverdecadethatspirithappenstocomefrom.
Versace
Louis Vuitton
Versace
Versace
Chloé
Coat,£95,SIMPLYBE
Sandals,£19O,BIMBAY LOLA
Necklace,£45O,
JWANDERSON
Sunglasses,£139,
MCQALEXANDER
McQUEEN
Cape, £329,
HOBBS
Boots, £69O,
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
Cardigan, £85O, GUCCI
Brooch, £3OO,
SAINT LAURENT
at HARVEY
NICHOLS
Top, £25,
SIMPLY BE
Blazer, £295,
BIMBA Y LOLA
Sunglasses £139
C M
How to... MIX & MASH-UP
p
RABANNE. Belt,£3O,DUNE
Top, £47O,PACO