Woolworths_Taste__January_2019

(Nancy Kaufman) #1
gaudycitybrochures)stilldoesn’tlook
likemuch,butit’swellsecuredbyagrid
of CCTV cameras and security guards in
serviceofagrowingtideofinternational
investments and developments, which
meansit’sactuallyalotsaferthan
the average Durban suburb. While
otherbusinessesmaystruggletogeta
foothold, there is one establishment that
hasthrived.TheChairman.Andyou,
moppingyourbrowswaddledinthat
Durban mink...you need a drink.
TheChairmanisplush,thewayyou
wish your home was. Beautiful furniture,
vintage and antique; thoughtful décor;
Persian rugs; Africanobjets d’art.Classy.
Uptown. Nestled between a derelict
building(theoldSeaman’sInstitute)
ontheonesideandapileofrubblewith
afaçadeontheother.TheChairman
isbasicallyalongstandingmetaphor
forDurban’ssenseofoptimism.Avision
ofwhatcouldbeifwe,asacity,ever
gotouracttogether.Andyes, they
do damn fine cocktails.

Ask the immaculately turned
outtenderpreneurandthegaggleof
dandiestomakealittlespaceatthe
barandstepup.AskMandlaGumede,
The Chairman’s resident mixologist,
(basicallyaprofessionalbartender
whospecialisesincocktails)fora
recommendation. If he doesn’t make
yousomethingbasedonyourdesires,
offthecuff,youcanorderoffthemenu.
Mandla’s been in the game for 17 years
and knows his way around a cocktail

“The Chairman
isalongstanding
metaphor for
Durban’s sense
of optimism.
Avisionofwhat
couldbeifwe,
as a city, ever got
our act together”

THE CHAIRMAN
DURBAN
Abadcocktailislikeasaccharine-sweet
slaponthepalateandahardkickinthe
wallet. Not good by anyone’s standard.
Verybadinfact.Butafinecocktail
cantakeyoutoheavenwithasip;
asensoryavalancheofdeliciousness,
wonder and pleasure, that gets you
onfasterthantwoshakesof cayenne
pepper in your undies.
Basically, cocktails are about
stimulation!
So,you’reinDurban,you’rewearing
theatmospherelikeawetmink
andyou’reinneedoffresh,sublime
refreshmentwithastrongalcohol
kicker.HeaddowntothePoint,
theskinnybuilt-uppeninsulathat
protects the harbour from the ravages
oftheIndianOcean.Thiswasonce
alesssalubriousneighbourhoodfull
ofvice;aplaygroundforsailorson
shoreleave,drugdealers,miscreants,
pimps and prostitutes. Alas, there was
alsoadownside.
Inthepastfewdecades,thePoint
hasseesawedbetweencrumminess
andrespectability.TodaythePoint
Waterfront Precinct (as it’s called in


This spread, clockwise from above: Cigars are a popular theme at The Chairman, this is one of their vestibules;
a line of perches at the main bar; the Juicy Fruit cocktail being poured properly; mixologist Mandla Gumede’s tools
and liquid inspiration; Mandla Gumede; the Surrender Your Booty cocktail.

88 TASTE JAN/FEB 2019


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