Woolworths_Taste__January_2019

TOP SA BARS

aChoiceAssortedbiscuitboxofJoburg’s

most eclectic, all gathering in the grip of

acity’sthirstysummer–andthatreally

shouldn’tbereducedtoa“scene”.Italso

feels like, although Julian is instinctively

savvyabouttheroleofsocial-media

hashtags and Instagram posts (Sin + Tax

anditsdrinksaregorgeous),he’s

definitelynotaslavetothem.“Agood

bartendercangiveyouthehistoryof

acity,agoodbarishowyoucandefine

acity.”AndbythismetricSin+Tax

andJoburgarespiritualtwins,easyto

overlook,yetwelcomingandbeautiful

if you stop and make the effort.

Tr uthful ly, the “secret”, hidden

quality of Sin + Tax is actually Julian’s

sincerehomagetotheProhibition

Eraspeakeasieshelovessomadly.Itis

meanttohidehisgentlydarkbubble

andprovidecoverforthediscerningly

thirsty. Because, once you’re inside, it

reallyisoneofthemostfriendly,warm-

heartedplacesinwhichtohaveadrink.

Afterall,thisiswhereDavidBeckham

was able to hang out anonymously for

SIN+TAX

JOHANNNESBURG
It’snotwithoutasheepishgrinthat
Julian Short talks almost evangelically
abouthowhewantstoplayarole
in making cocktails more accessible.
Thesheepishnessisbecause,ashe’s
sayingthewordsit’shardtoignore
thefactthatwe’retuckedintoa(sexily
dim) corner of Sin + Tax, his bar that’s
hidden behind an anonymous black
doorWithnosign.Downanalley.
Next to a parking lot. With a strict
admittance policy.
So much for accessible. Insert
cry-laughing emoji face.
Andyet,somewhatdisarmingly,
hetotallysellsit.Becausehecompletely
andutterlymeansit.Forallthat
Sin+Tax potentially has the trappings
ofit,pretensionplaysabsolutelynopart
inthetiny,exposedbrick,glassand
leathernookthatisagemstoneinthe
dust of Joburg’s nascent cocktail scene.
Wait.“Scene”doesn’tfeellikethe
right word. Any given night here is

awholenightononeofthegenerously

stuffed leather Churchill sofas. It’s where

SouthAfrica’srock-starrestauranteurs

gatherafterservice(theygeta15%

discountatthebar),andcaptainsof

industry,journalists,bankers,Friday-

nightrevellers,T-shirtsandtiesallsettle

into their corners and gratefully accept

theirgoldenhazeinaglass.

Thankfully, there is zero place on

Julian’smenuforchildren’sTV-show-

esquerainbowsofsugarysyrupdesigned

to hide meagre quantities of alcohol;

or single measures of over-engineered

science experiment served in a bespoke

90 TASTE JAN/FEB 2019

“This is where

David Beckham

wasabletohang

outanonymously

foranightonone

of the generously

stuffed leather

Churchill sofas”

Clockwise from above: Alex Fahrenheim is on the bartending

team; the Jambo cocktail stars Mount Gay Barbados rum,

toasted almond, nutmeg and naartjie; tools of the trade.